FOOD & DRINK NEWS & REVIEWS
MOVEABLE FEASTS Taisteal’s chef and produce may be Scottish, but James Teideman discovers that this new venture uses inspiration from around the globe to offer a refreshed take on fusion
C hef Gordon Craig is a happy man. This is his dream job: a place of his own. His path to get here has included stints at the multi- Michelin starred Waterside Inn, the Plumed Horse, and more recently a partnership at Field. After a year at the helm of Stockbridge’s Field Grill, he’s taken the opportunity to rebrand in his own image, journeying from session musician to conductor. Now he’s orchestrating proceedings; constantly tweaking, refining, perfecting.
With Taisteal (Gaelic for travel), Gordon now creates dishes based on the best local Scottish produce, laced with inspiration from his cook’s tours, whether to Copenhagen or China (or the Chinese supermarket). The pivot has lost the odd regular but quickly gained a crowd keen to dip their toes in international waters. He claims that future destinations – South America, he says – will determine the direction of his dishes and enable evolution, keeping both customer and kitchen satisfied. So to start: scallops and black pudding (so far, so Scottish) but with pomegranate, satay and a shard of samosa pastry, a friendly shark’s fin protruding from hand-dived depths. Ras el hanout-
TAISTEAL
glazed pigeon breast rests on a disc of giant couscous, scattered with pistachio like a glittery green cupcake. The fusion is not forced though, and doesn’t feel like a twist for novelty’s sake. For mains, a shiitake samosa shakes up a maple and five-spice Gressingham duck with grilled pak choi and edamame beans. Two-textured deep- fried butternut squash gnocchi stand out alongside venison haunch with sesame seeds and cassis jus. The fusions are subtler at dessert: sweet is sweet. A chocolate and citrussy yuzu fondant reveals itself like a boiled egg receiving soldiers, prettied with orange curd powder and matching sorbet. And citrus plays again in a luscious lemongrass parfait with cracks of honeycomb and coconut ice-cream. It’s possible to interpret ‘taisteal’ as a conceptual culinary journey: this Taisteal hints at the exotic without being elite, inaccessible or scary.
+ Creative chef taking fine Scottish produce in exciting directions
- Inevitably, not every diner will ‘get’ each fusion
1 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH4 1HU, 0131 332 9977, taisteal.co.uk
Tue–Sun noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm. Closed Mon. Set two-course lunch £10; average cost two-course dinner £22
58 THE LIST 1 Apr–31 May 2017
DRINKS NEWS
Mike McGinty (pictured), general manager of Edinburgh West End bar The Voyage of Buck, travelled to Mexico in January and saw off rival bartenders from around the globe to claim the International Patrón Perfectionist cocktail competition. A version of his winning entry, a Yellow Pepper Sour which mixes tequila with chamomile-infused sherry and yellow pepper syrup, can be tasted by taking a voyage to William Street.
In Glasgow, beer brand Innis & Gunn are opening a new Beer Kitchen in Ashton Lane, while Kained Holdings latest Finnieston opening is a Victorian boozer-turned- Mexican party bar called the Duchess of Argyle.