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PHOTO 3401'
uilty secret
As another local pub opens with a menu that dares not to serve deep-fried fish and chips, Donald Reid asks if the year of Homecoming might just herald an outbreak of homecooking
tlilly l.ily is not. nor does it aspire to be.
a gastropub. That label. for many good
reasons (Hot least the ugliness ot the name). hasn't really made much headway north of the border. (iuilty Lily is a local pub serving real ale. bowls ol olives. decent eol'l'ee. homemade scones. sprigs of mint in its water jugs and a shortish menu of simple. decent l‘ood. Nothing too pretentious and nothing more than you might hope for from a local pub-cale—bistro with a sense (it individuality and sell-respect. Sadly. however. in a sector dominated by routine. poor-grade l‘ood straight from the l'ood- service lorries. a short menu ol‘ simple. decent l’ood cooked by cooks on the premises is not normal.
The kind ol‘ thing we‘re talking about here is a pork and cider hotpot containing a cheaper cut of better sourced meat that has sul'l'icient lat and flavour to hold up alongside the bulk ol' winter root veg. or offering crispy potato chunks rather than peely-wally lingers ol' reconstituted potato. or a shepherd‘s pie that most likely uses the same freshly ground mince that‘s in the burgers. There are only hall-a-do/en mains on ol‘l‘er. but these days the sight ol’ a shorter menu should make you sit up and take notice.
It you can put two courses on the table for {II—US. it's in the lone deemed good value without straying so cheap that it could only have
been created by a significant dose of
industrialisation in the way the food is grown. produced. processed and cooked. A menu with all—day breakfasts. soups and a couple of stews and pies is easy and obvious pub food but. with someone in the kitchen sourcing butchers' meat. seasonal fresh produce and decent basics like bread and cheese. alongside someone with the cooking skills to impart flavour and restraint. becomes easy and obvious pub l'ood that‘s worth engaging with.
(iuilty Lily is located in a rather anonymous lone of small industrial units and new l'lats
THE SIGHT OF A SHORTER MENU SHOULD MAKE YOU SIT UP AND TAKE NOTICE
hallway between (‘anonmills and l.eith in north lidinburgh. 'l‘ellingly. there's nowhere decent to eat within at least halt a mile in all directions. In a clear effort to reach out to the local community it makes itsell' child friendly. has l‘ree wi-li. is putting together a programme ol' music gigs and has special events lined up not jtist for Burns Night but also — being Aussie—run — for Australia Day the next day.
The team behind it opened. with some success. The lispy in Portobello last year having started
GUILTY LILY
284 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh 0131 554 5824. www.guiltylily.com A pub for the local community; comfortable.
sensibly priced with a simple menu.
with. then moved on from Roseleal‘ in l.eith. The l‘ormula is one that suits a neighbourhood rather better than the downtown scene. though unlike l’ortobello. Bonnington doesn‘t attract many day trippers. With dark wood lloors and turniture. red and black labrics and a couple ol slumping solas it‘s neatly kitted out without being glamorous and isn't huge. with just over 20 covers in the dining room and space l'or perhaps St) drinking in the bar. You'd call it normal — il'only that were the case.
PUBS WITH SOME SHINING DINING
MacSorley's Music Bar
42 Jamaica Street, Glasgow
0141 248 8581, www.macsorleys.com
From the owners of the Sub Club is the ‘Sub Pub'. an old boozer turned boho hang-out. Tatty round the edges. it pumps out an indie dominated soundtrack and packs its menu With potted bough. herring in oatmeal and cheese from Ayrshire.
10 THE LIST 2‘2 Jan—5 Feb 3009
The Butterfly and the Pig
153 Bath Street, Glasgow
0141 221 7711, www.thebutterflyandthepig.com
This odd but loveable Subterranean pub has a kitchen that‘s at ease Wllll good. straightforward food and clearly likes to indulge some spare time baking bread. making pickles and thinking up bizarre menu descriptions.
Hamilton:
18 Hamilton Place, Edinburgh
0131 226 4199, www.hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk
With its raised dining area and discerning Stockbridge clientele. the foods clearly irriportant at this recently redeSigned bar, With familiar dishes Such as fish stew or burgers clearly benefitting from a bit of TLC in the kitchen.