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PAGE ‘05
THE MEAL
dinhurgh is a ttturist eit_\. and tor restaurants that‘s
htith a hlessing and a eurse. lit‘lll'l\[\ are hundreds tit
thtiusands «it e\tra diners appearing at their enlleetn e thml' eaeh )t‘dl'L itit)|\ ttm Chisel} It) them. ittm e\ er. ttlttl )till.” he tit\[\tl';tf_‘eti i'ttl‘ eliehed. l\\ ee tit\iie\ ttl' hiked Pt lee\.
'lihese ti;t_\\ the shtips tilt the Rt)_\;ti Mile are ilHlliL‘ [U [More tartan tat than e\er hehu'e. It seems inexitahle that the thHHHtlttl'ixL'l slide \sill take restaurants \sith it. set there is e\ idenee tn enunteraet tltat: eat’es sueh as .'\|\\a'\s Sunda) and the HHL‘ in tlte Storytelling ('entre. attd restaurants sueh as ('aie .\Iarla_\ne and la (iarrigue. dti a tine ginh HI) «tr near the histtirie thttrtiughtare.
hilt) this slightl} strange market a series tit ne\\ eating sputs has emerged iii the last ten munths nu the ('annngate \L'L'lit)ll Hi- the RU}LI| \lile. tit)\\l] irtim .lnhn Kll()\.\ HutIse. (‘ate histrti I.a/_\ Inhan's set up at numher ISH. mm a slant ttmards simple htnneetitiking and gutid stiureing. In plaee tit the \enerahle. t1 tl'titlhieti.
l’laisir du ('htietilat at numher 35] 3 is a pnur ilnttatitm ealled
(are l)tiuee l‘ranee. thtiugh the ehtiettlate—making element til.
the ne\\ husiness is mtire etunpelling.
Must \\t)t'tit_\ Hi ntttiee is \Vedgutitid the Restaurant. \shieh replaeed Ret‘nrm this summer. .\ tirst plaee tit~ their ' tmn itir Setits-hurn and Lake l)istriet—trained ehel' Paul \Vedgxstmd and partner l.isa ('hannnn. )tiu get the sense that the} euuldn‘t LIllilL‘ helie\e a \enue tit sueh prtuninenee and manageahle si/e tnight he mailahle.
B} putting his name ahme the titittl' it‘s elear Wedgxt'tmd plans tn make an impressitin in the tine dining stakes. But determined amhititin attd etnnmereial realities lime to meet stiitteuhere. :\ gtmd start are the UH tun-enurse htnehes HI] utter nieel} etmked hream iillets \\ ith a partnesan erttst set'\'e the purptise tit' intrndueing the e\ening menu and euntrihute to a \ahte luneh. The t'riendl}. \sarm atmusphere Urehestrated h) (’hanntin also helps. ex en it there's a eettain .\1()R-ness l() the
0 art. designer ertieker} and haekgrnund inusie. O r U n I n The exening menu. thnugh lung and retieent ahnut stiureing. reads intriguing!) \\ ith a range tit Ideal and extitie ingredients \shieh raise the speetre «it t'usitin hind hut steer u ell clear (it
The Royal be awaSh tartan tat: bUt there's [Ullt'i\l ehehes tand prieesi. '1‘} pieal Hi the apprt )aeh are dishes room for gOOd taste Where tourists roam sueh as smtiked \L'Hi\t)l] earpaeein \tith sueet and sour
ptnnegranates. «tr lamh rulled in mus entts. pistaehit) and WEDGWOOD THE RESTAURANT islaeh tinitm seed. serted \tith gingered stseet pittatt) puree and a eatdamnm eteam \ttllLL'. Buld Hd\()UI\. hits ()1 267 Canongate, Royal Mile, Edinburgh, 0131 558 8737, preparation. deeent ingredients and gum] enukittg. h* "'“—*’_""m"' " "Mm" " " ‘ " ‘ ” :\s the plaees mentinned pre\it>usl} haVe shtmn. there is still mum tiir indixidualism and high standards ()n the Royal Note: the restaurant will be closed throughout January 2008 Mile. The e\idenee is that tuned-in i()Citi\ and tourists with taste hax e taken [0 \Vedgu'tmd with some enthusiasm.
.1 j ' -1 /',‘/'1THE LIST 101
www.wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk