Smoow sailing
Novelty abounds on a floating Leith restaurant with a colourful history
he ()cean .\list's story is
long and colourful. .-\
steamer~trawler fitted out by the Royal \ayy at the tail end of the Great War. she arrived too late for active service. and seemed fated to rust on the dockside. 'l‘hanks. however. to Kli (iuinness (a member of the famous lrish brewing dynasty) the ship was given a new lease of life. ferrying rally cars to the sottlh of l‘rancc and Italy.
'l‘hree decades later in 10(15. she finally came to rest on [.eith's Kings \\'ark quay. becoming a familiar fixture there as a floating restaurant. But lack of business forced her doors to close in 2000. The proud old tub the last of her kind again faced a doubtful future.
l‘ncertain. that was. until entrepreneurs Sassan Porn and Matthew 'l‘abatabaie catne along with their sights set on the lucrative. increasingly cosmopolitan l.eith waterfront. .'\t a cost of Lllm the Ocean .\list has been fully refitted to house (‘ru/1 a Oil—seat restaurant.
bar/club and function room/ conference suite across three levels.
.-\esthetically. the job has been tastefully done: most skeletal features of the boat have been preserved - port holes. panelled ceilings and sloping decks (certain to he disorientating after a few drinks). Bar a lick of fresh white paint. the tlecor is minimal. ('urved padded booths adorn the bar level: the restaurant floor is filled only by rows of smart black and white tables and chairs.
Being a boat that‘s afloat. seafood is naturally prominent on the menu and much of it comes from local producers: Loch Fyne oysters or mussels and fresh Scottish salmon or lobster. for example. :\ssiette de
poissons ftttttc. a selection of
smoked fish served with a leafy salad and horseradish cream. makes for an elegant starter.
Main courses are let down by some disamiointingly simple
sltorlcottiiltgs. however. The fish of
in this instance smoked looks wonderful as it arri\ es still crackling on the plate.
the day sea bass
TAKE THREE: PLACES TO DINE AT SEA
Zazou
Ogilvie Terrace, Edinburgh, 0131 669 5516
lite art‘santazy; t'at /a/ou has over your t,pr<::il fragrant; restaurant is that it actually casts off its moorings. lllt:
pearly; on ill"; ! 'ét'ifil‘, nano‘x.’ boat is
"merged tn ill-x- ll'il’r'l Canal. but tilt: in}.
:s lit:.":ll'i(:l(:‘.t. a Ia'ty: pa". of tilt: appeal. ()tien only to (troops of (Eltllll to 17. serving llfrtili, ll.‘ll’.2l;(?f3 and 'llfllltflfl.
94 THE LIST ‘
The Seafood Cabin
88001, Skipness, 01880 760 207 Also i'i'l()'.'.’ll as the ()rab Shack. the last tinir: ‘.‘l.‘;ll(}(l the Seafood (Labin near E'Slxllilltfiii; -:;outl‘. of larberl on the Kintyrr: peninsular. a flush oi wee tlti“;l\llll(l53 nestled lit the lax'xn amid the mum; tables and benches. .mlnle liens .'/£ll"_l(:lt:' i about. l resli seafood is cooked Ill a tiny retro caravan. ()Iosed Saturdays and over vanter.
but the drizzle of tangy tomato sauce is barely enough to flavour one let alone both — cuts of fish. Asparagus risotto. loo. promises much with its thick creamy texture. but the truffle oil topping is twerbearing. giving the dish an all too intense. even slightly sickly aroma.
'l‘here‘s certainly much to he said for eating at (‘ruz as an experience: bright. airy. novel surrounds — plus swim-bys from Leith‘s newest
residents (a pair of swans with their
three cygnets). (‘ertainly among weekend drinkers and revellers. it
promises to become a popular
haunt. Whether (‘rtt/ can compete. however. with the established variety of other waterfront eateries and add a famous new chapter to the ship‘s proud 90-year history in the process -- remains to be seen.
Cruz, The Shore, Leith, 0131 553 6699; www.thecruz.co.uk Open daily, serving food from noon until about 10pm; bar open until 1am. Two-course evening meal is around £18
The Top Deck @ the Ferry Anderston Quay, Glasgow,
0141 248 5376
Before the Clyde tunnel and Kingston bridge. this was one of tho ferries that took people across the river. Hard to imagine today. Moored on the north banks. the lop Deck serves up buffalo Wings and pakora. as well as main courses such as Mexrcan (:hilli, beef burgers and pix/as.
Side Dishes
News to nibble on . . .
I The Grill Room at Edinburgh’s Sheraton Grand has raised the ‘beef stakes’ in Scotland by introducing Australian prime Wagyu beef [pictured] to its menu. A version of the vaunted Japanese Kobe, it’s hand- massaged and fed on a diet of grain and beer. Call 0131 229 9131.
I People planning to attend Shakespeare in Glasgow's Botanical Gardens can order an ‘EIizabethan'—style picnic hamper from the nearby Grosvenor Hilton. For 9235. a basket for two will include roast pheasant. spinach tarts, bread. chutney and cheeses. Call 0141 339 881 1.
I For the Montpelier group of New Town Edinburgh bars, a champagne summer has begun. Participating venues, such as Rick’s, Opal Lounge, and Tigerlily offer bubbly promotions such as £17 glasses of Dom Perignon ‘99. I In Glasgow's Merchant City, the new premises of Cafe Cossachok, the Russian diner and cultural centre, have opened on Albion Street, while around the corner on the Trongate the Gate and Secret Garden dining room have opened next to Maggie May’s. Up the way in the Merchant Square development, the once French Bistro Julienne has been converted by owners into the Italian Lombardi's. Nearby. the delayed opening of Gandolfi Fish may have occurred by the time you read this.
I On the West Coast the first Cowal ArtsFeast (01369 840 253) from 22-24 June brings together local galleries and a food trail that includes Chatters restaurant, Codfathers fish mongers and Delicate Essence catering in Dunoon, as well as Fyne Ales brewery and lnver Cottage restaurant among others.
I Another highlight on the foodie calendar is the annual Tarbert Seafood Festival, which takes place in the fishing village on 7 and 8 July. As well as cookery demonstrations and displays. it features live bands. street performers and a boat rally.