Fres aproach
An innovative new Indian diner joins ‘restaurant row’ in Glasgow’s West End
41 Byres Road, Glasgow, 0141 339 1339 Proprietor Karen Majhu once worked in the Ashoka chain and her chef was trained by
Mother li/lonir Mohammad. Set-price. basmati rice, roti and raita
for £7.95 available Monday—Friday, noon—4pm
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THE MEAL
yres Road. the undottbted focal point of (ilasgow's
West lind. is a celebrated street for dining out. With
the venerable .\'o Sixteen near its base and the long- popular (‘afe Antipasti nearer the top of the street. there is strength and diversity. It is bolstered by foodie shops. such as Heart Buchanan and Kember & Jones. and cal-es as different as modern 'l‘inderbox or the old-school l'niversity.
But success is not guaranteed. Just ask the people who ran Naked Soup. Leonardo‘s 6’; (‘o or Beetlcnut. Indeed. the recently opened Mrs Majhu‘s is in a tiny split level site that is slightly infamous for its variety of occupants; in the course of a half dozen years it has been liusion. Dining Room and Monster Mash —- although they all presumably had different reasons (not necessarily associated to the premises) for closing.
Mrs Maihu‘s is the type of place that people talk abottt. lt's had the kind of word of mouth publicity that draws punters to its door. (‘ynics might remark that after Italian. however. Indian food is the other style of cuisine that the city already
has a surfeit of.
But Mrs Majhtt‘s is arguably as notable for what it doesn‘t do as what it does. Specifically. don‘t come here expecting to see kormas. dopia/as. a dozen different pakora and bhajis or chicken tikka masala. Instead. the menu is highlighted by dishcs such TALK ABOUT as green chilli and lime king prawn (with homemade pickle) or aloo gobi and asparagus. .\'ot ever dish is this different from the (ilasgow- Indian norm. There’s an onion bhaji starter but it is ‘minted‘: a vegetable pakora is paired with a cauliflower version: a main course of chicken lentils and spinach presumably will satisfy anyone looking for a type of dhal chicken saag.
livening meals start with novelty: complementary wee puff balls that diners are meant to crack open and stuff with a mixture of chickpeas and a yoghurt dressing. l‘rom the a la carte starters (USS-£4.75). a chunk of salmon is slowly baked with a crust of coconut and parsley. ()ne might wonder if coriander wouldn‘t give it a bit tnore kick. Several main courses (£7.2(l-L‘ll95) don't wallow in any gloopy. day-glo sauces. (iingered chicken karahi is relatively dry. with tangy ginger and diced bits of breast meat. which could itsclf arguably be moistcr. (‘rispy lamb (with delicate lady lingers) rttns the risk of a jerky consistency. although the dish is quite unlike what you‘ll find in any other curry house. Sweet potatoes and attbergines is a more successful invention: tcndcr young aubergines contrast nicely vv ith the starchy yams.
In time. execution might always match innovation. which along with friendly staff. is .\lrs Majhu’s trump card. Betting folk would wager that this operation could become a Byrcs Road landmark rather than a passing fancy.
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