SideDishes
News to nibble on. . .
I Mzouda, a new Moroccan and Spanish restaurant, has opened in Glasgow’s West End. Located at 141 Elderslie Street (just south of Sauchiehall Street and next door to Mr Singh’s India), it will feature food prepared by owner Hamid Benhach, who spent over 15 years cooking in Spanish and French restaurants in Barcelona. The restaurant's name comes from the Atlas Mountain village where he spent his childhood. I Simple Simon’s posh pies [pictured] have secured two new retail distributors: Pekham's delicatessens and Margiotta‘s in Edinburgh. Though still available by direct order. the Bigger-based pie maker‘s creations — whose beef and pork fillings are organic — are also sold at Harvey Nicks and Dobbies garden centres. Log on to simplesimonspies.co.uk.
I The founding chef at the Hallion club in Edinburgh is opening his own restaurant in North Queensferry. Craig Hall’s Wee Restaurant only has space for 28 diners with a weekly changing menu. ‘This will be a family-run restaurant.’ Hall says. ‘I want to serve simple good food and wines without tormality.’ The Wee Restaurant, 17 Main Street, North Queensferry, 01383 616263.
I In Ayr, Fouters restaurant is offering a five-course ‘Taste of Fouters' meal for only £18.50 per person Tuesday to Thursday. Chef/owner Brian Murphy's sample menu has chicken liver and cognac partait. roasted scallop with pistachio butter and loin of Dalduft lamb. Fouters. 2A Academy Street. Ayr, 01292 261391.
I Finally, The List’s crack team of more than 60 reviewers have completed their dining at some 850 restaurants, cafes, bistros and bars for the 13th edition of our annual Eating & Drinking Guide. Look for a preview in the next issue, while the 176- page tome to dining out in Edinburgh, Glasgow and the sunounding shires is published with the magazine on Wednesday 26 April.
EAT&DRINK
Poetic licence
Emma Newlands discovers Chinaski’s, Glasgow’s new bar inspired by that notorious Beat generation barfly Charles Bukowski.
arry (‘hinaski — the literary
alter ego of writer (‘harles
Bukowski — provides the inspiration for this new bar and restaurant in premises that most will remember (fondly or otherwise) as Bar .Iedi. The influence of hard-drinking I.A bohemian belletrist Bukowski could hardly be farther from (ieorge Lucas‘ idealistic sci-fi fantasies. A portrait of the cult author‘s craggy face hangs above the bar.
But why Bukowski'.’ ‘lt‘s because of his poems.' manager/owner I‘ergus McVicar explains. ‘I'm not so much a fan of the novels. but there's a poem with a bar in it.‘
The notoriously hard-living (‘hinaski would no doubt approve of the selection of more than 5() American bourbons lined up neatly on glass shelves behind the bar. Among the ranks that include Pappy Van Winkles I5-year—old. Wild Turkey Rare Breed and Johnny Drum are even rarer finds. such as (ieorge T Stag. ‘It's been voted the best whiskey in the world.’ says McVicar. who has had a hand in running the Variety Bar and previously managed Brunswick Cellars.
In addition to the ['8 vvhiskeys. Chinaski's stocks lb wines. as well as featuring a cocktail list with classics such as Long Island ice tea and mojito. Such refreshing
mixed drinks will come into their own this summer when plans include serving cocktails in pitchers to punters sitting outdoors in the secluded two-level beer garden. which has room for 80.
('hinaski's is unselfconsciously stylish with simple touches such as booths and battqucltes upholstered in green leather or artwork from local artists (Will Maw. for example). Across from the bar. there is a portrait of the late .Iohn Peel.
Since opening in January. the bar and bistro has tended to attract
CRUMBLY APPLE PIE AND CUSTARD HAVE NEVER GONE ANYWHERE NEAR A PRODUCTION LINE
low-key locals. including more mature students and office workers who come in for drinks or to sample the freshly made food. Prices are reasonable for snacks. such as bread and dips (£3.75). which supplies a generous helping of crisp and piping hot flat pizza dough bread. served with a winning combination of tomato salsa. chilli creme fraiche. a rich
vegetable tapenade and refreshing mint yoghurt. .\lo//arel|a sticks (£3.50). oo/ing and gooey in the middle. crunchy on the outside. are appetising loo.
('hinaski's larger courses include steak pie. hangers and mash or jerkvstyle chicken. :\ thin—cut carver ham sandwich vv ith tomatoes. rocket and mayonnaise (£4.45) is perhaps a tribute to Bukovvski‘s book Ham on lv’vi'. :\t the pricier end of the scalc. fillcl steak (L' l 3.95) is served with fondant potatoes. pan-fried greens and roasted pepper sauce.
(’overing the middle ground are the likes of pasta and htll’gcl’s. The mushroom pil/a (£5.95) presents an ultra-thin crispy base covered in mushrooms fried in garlic.
NIL‘VIL‘UI‘ points out that dishes are made from scratch. Thus. there can be a 20-minute wait for burgers. Meanwhile. the crumbly apple pie and pale custard made with honey would have never gone anywhere near a production line. With plans for a carvery'. soul food and barbeques. Ilenry ('hinaski may have found himself jtlst as much at home on the customer side of the bar as he is above it.
Chinaski’s, 239 North Street, Glasgow, 0141 221 0061. Open Monday—Sat Ham-midnight and Sunday 12.30pm-midnight with food served daily from lunchtime until 9pm.
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