(‘afe serving sandwiches. salads. pasta and bistro food as well as a style bar in the basement.)
(‘aines' (‘V includes three years working with Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in ()sfordshire and in lirance working with such living culinary gods such as Joel Robuchon. llis style (‘modern liuropean‘ rather than ‘modern French‘) encompasses different continental influences and emphasises local and seasonal produce ~— particularly game at this time of year. For (‘aines. using ingredients in season serves to ‘enhance the experience‘.
Judging from a sample lunch. dishes exemplify fine dining standards but don‘t appear too fussy.
A seared scallop appetiser is served with a smooth puree of parsnip that is rich and nutty. The salad of venison starter offers a small pile of tender pink slices of meat. with cubes of roasted celeriac and a llollandaise sauce flavoured with game juices. A fillet of pan- fried sea bream is set on a mound of salty puy lentils (with very fine slivers of bacon). surrounded by the froth of a delicate bay leaf veloute. A dollop of what (‘aines calls ‘tomato fondue~ tops the fish with intensely concentrated flavours.
Other options on the set-price lunch -— the ‘entry level for fine dining‘ — include tartlet of poached quail eggs with onion confit and
herb butter sauce or roast breast of
guinea fowl with pomme puree and braised vegetables.
Prices for the evening a la carte are steeper but no more than at other top—end restaurants in (ilasgow and the dishes sound exceptional: roasted quail with fricassee of globe artichokes. poached quail egg and an artichoke veloute (£9.95) or saddle of venison on a bed of red cabbage with fondant potato. celeriac puree and a redcurrant tea sauce ( £2l ).
(‘aines’ restaurant is laying down a marker. signalling it wants to be the best in (ilasgow.
Michael Gaines at Abode Glasgow, the Arthouse, 129 Bath Street, Glasgow, 0141 572 601 1 - and Michael Caines Café Bar, 0141 572 6002.
84 THE LIST 5) 1'.) Jan 900‘}
EAT&DR|NK
.. Kilt;- '
Turkish delight
Hints of the glories of the Ottoman Empire are to be found off the High Street in Edinburgh’s Old Town, writes Lea Harris.
lthough the tiny Turkish cafe called limpires only opened in
August. it‘s certainly integrated itself into the community in and
around St Mary’s Street. lts sunflower yellow walls are strewn with imported blue tiles and coloured lanterns. which are for sale. Tables fill the limited space. while guests moving up to the small mezzanine can sit on cushions and carpets. ()verwhelmingly. the food and ambience draw people back to limpires.
Owned and run in a somewhat chaotic yet entirely charming way by limrah and lemma Kemaneler. the cafe features food based on the traditional home cooking of Turkey. Ingredients are sourced from Turkish suppliers: the crispy crust bread with its fluffy cloud-like centre is delivered from London. Served piping hot. it is best for scooping the dips in a meze selection. whether the smooth yoghurt aubergine mixture that‘s smoky and garlicky or the ‘hibish‘ — similar to hummus but with much more of a kick.
There's a tapestry of dolmas (rice stuffed peppers. aubergines. cabbage and vine leaves) while the ‘fasulye‘ (green beans with tomato and herbs) has a lemony zestiness: it also comes with the hearty lamb pilaff (or ‘pilav‘ in Turkish) to create a more substantial meal. The seasoning in most of the dishes tends to be pleasantly subtle. adding some fragrant notes to the more familiar flavours.
Although the space is small. it can be a place to relax and take your time. Typical of Turkish cafes. an intense. rich smoky coffee is served: perfect with either rose—scented cubes of Turkish delight or a sticky sliver of baklava. With nothing on the menu over £5.50 and portions substantial. limpires offers great value for money.
Empires, 24 St Mary’s Street, Edinburgh, 0131 466 0100. Food is served from Monday to Friday 12—8pm; Saturday and Sunday from 1 1am-8.30pm.
Side Dishes
News to nibble on. . .
I Tapa Coffee 8. Bakehouse recently expanded its premises in Dennistoun, Glasgow, and has widened its range of goods. New breads include the ‘East End medium rye’ and ‘pane ltaliano', a multi-grain loaf with five flours and five seeds, as well as four wheat-free loaves and two sourdoughs. In addition to extra space and more products, the bakery/cafe also received its organic certification from the Soil Association. That’s a real rarity among even the most ethical of food shops. Tapa, 21 Whitehill Street, 0141 554 9981.
I Visit Scotland's ‘Dine around Edinburgh' promotion runs from 8 January to 5 February and selected restaurants in and around the capital will be offering set-price $215 menus. All you need to do is book a table using www.edinburghrestaurantsco.uk. Participating ventures include Cosmo. Creelers, Haldanes. Iggs, the Doric. the Shore and Whighams Wine Cellars [pictured]. Further details can also be found at www.eatscotland.com.
I Two very different bars have re-opened after facelifts. Opal Lounge, the style bar and club in Edinburgh’s New Town has undergone a £250,000 revamp with new furnishings and decor (see offers, page 13). In Glasgow, the indie Mecca that is Nice’n’Sleazy has had a reasonably radical refit, although no major structural changes have altered the terrain. Opal Lounge, 518 George Street, Edinburgh, 0131 226 2275. Nice’n’Sleazy, 421 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, 0141 333 0900.
I Side dishes has heard that the owners of Koshkemeer, the ground-breaking first Kurdish restaurant in Scotland on Glasgow’s Southside. are opening another venture. It is said to be a restaurant and Kurdish cultural centre on Gilmore Place near Tollcross, Edinburgh. By the time you see this, it may even be open.