Horne . coo in in aTurkigb cafe
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Stars in our eyes
If chef Michael Caines gets his way, about this time next year Glasgow may again have a Michelin gong in its portfolio of
top-end restaurants, Barry Shelby writes.
Glasgow 0141221 6789, www.abodehotels.co.uk/glasgow.
On the trail Avoiding a
Kerouac in fauxgas in California 200 4'
stated philosophy is to create stunning hotels, with fine dining and bar
fagiliiies attached. The first Abode hotel launched in Exeter last September, and was
swiftly followed by Abode Glasgow. Room rates start at £125.
fashion
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hef Michael (‘aines is a study in control and calm.
The powers gone out on only day three in the life of
his line dining restaurant at the new Abode Hotel in (ilasgow's Arthouse. Reception is candlelit. In the main floor dining room. only some dim emergency lamps. the large arching windows lacing Bath Street and a peaked sky light at the rear keep the space from utter darkness.
There is one rather large celebratory party and another table of six business types. who also look as if they may be enjoying their pre-(‘hristmas cheer. Wine flows and. rather than being sombre. the mood is actually bu/Jy with the sound of animated conversation seemingly filling the gap left by low illumination. It is not a bad time to appreciate the simplicity of the venue's uncomplicated. if stylish. design: light green contrasts with slate grey. one wall incorporates exposed white gla/ed ceramic bricks. while the floors are a walnut—hued timber.
When light's restored ten minutes later. it's greeted with a hearty cheer. l’ale walls are now bathed in a golden glow AS from a host of tip-lighters. Warmth has been restored. As (‘aines may not be 11 LAST household name. but the ' lixeter-born chef is among a select few in the l'K to have earned not jtist one but two vaunted stars from the Michelin inspectors. Of his restaurant at (iidleigh Park house hotel in (‘hagford. l)evon. the famous red guide says: 'culinary specialities abound. full of exquisitely prepared local produce'. Michelin stars can become albatrosses for some chefs. A few wilt under the pressure of expectations raised by the most respected accolade in the trade. while others make retaining the best known award a higher priority than pleasing customers. Judging from a recent conversation. (‘aines doesn‘t appear to be falling into either trap. ‘lt’s a burden I will gladly canyf he says of his honours. And what of this venture? l)oes it have a Michelin gong in its sights‘.’ You bet. he says. But he is here full-time only for the debut period of Abode (he and his business partner will open another branch in Canterbury in April). So any future recognition here will go chiefly to the head chef he has appointed. ’l‘oday that is Glasgow-born Martin l)onnelly. who returns home after working for Gordon Ramsay and with (‘aines at (iidleigh. The staff‘s aspiration is to lasso a star (of which (ilasgow currently has none). So. ('aines asks rhetorically. 'Who atn l to deny that ambition‘." Instead his task is to enable the operation to excel. That means not only fine food but also affordable prices (to whit. two-course lunch for “2.50). Also. the feel of place is key. No music is played to encourage chatter around the table. While smart dress is expected. no code will lumber the operation. He is well aware that part of the challenge is to destroy any ‘preconception' that this restaurant is ‘pretentious.’ (In addition to the fine dining restaurant. Abode also has a Michael (‘aines 5- 12) Jan 2006 THE LIST 83