The peat is on
The island's topography is more Ayrshire
than Highlands, but there’s plenty of history - and whisky - in these hills
Famous for its whisky and low, flat scenery, Islay has a distinctive flavour all of its own, discovers Barry Shelby.
‘ nce you get on to the peat. it’s hard to go back.” explains Billy
Stitchell. plant manager of Caol Ila whisky. during a tasting in the distillery's bonded warehouse on the picturesque kyle that runs between the isles of Islay and Jura. He‘s right. There’s no denying the distinctiveness of ‘the peat’: on Scotland’s proverbial whisky island, it is essentially the signature of its Scotch.
On Islay, peat is in air and peat is all around. Aromas of fires fuelled by it are pervasive near any settlement and the telltale signs of cuttings in the moors abound — especially on the central road from ferry terminal Port Ellen to the island’s default capital, Bowmore. with its tidy whitewashed cottages lining a grid of streets.
In the name of peat. or perhaps the geese that seemed to nestle amid it. cranky conservationist David Bellamy descended on Islay a few years back and demanded that the moors — or least one bit of
them — be left alone. And so they have been.
If you happen to see some lone weathered gent digging peat with a strange traditional tool that looks like a scythe crossed with a long- handled spade, he’s probably just preparing for a whisky tour-group’s visit. Look up in the hills above the airport and you‘ll spy the deep, orderly grooves of mechanical extraction for firing the island’s whisky malting kilns in Port Ellen.
At Rockside Farm. the Islay Fine Food Company plans to augment its line of quality oak-smoked Islay- reared meats with some peat— smoked salmon. The fish will necessarily be brought in. but the peat is intended to confirm the Islay connection and authenticity.
But, for peat’s sake, don’t assume that this is all that Islay has to offer.
Near Rockside on the western Rhinns of Islay, the Kilchoman burial ground boasts one of the island’s several medieval artifacts: a surprisingly intact, elaborately carved eight-plus—foot high early
15th century Celtic cross. Then. there are the beaches. Less than a mile down the road lies Machir
YOU MIGHT BE LUCKY ENOUGH TO FIND SOME LOBSTER AND LANGOUSTINES JUST LANDED AND FOR SALE AT PORT ELLEN
Bay, whose mist-swept white sands seem to reveal sinuous wreckage at low tide. From the dunes here. a traditional track up and over Granny‘s Rock (distinguished today by the radar equipment) leads to more medieval mystery at Kilchiaran’s ruined chapel and lichen covered burial slabs.
The potential for food tourism includes not only Rockside with its
new farm shop. as well as the Kilchoman micro distillery‘s visitor centre and cafe (near the ranch’s pony trekking stables) but also the Loch Gruinan Oyster farm. where you can sample shellfish fresh from the sea. You might be lucky enough to find some lobster and langoustines just landed and for sale at the Port lillen marina. Barring that. though. check with Jean's Fresh Fish van half way up Main Street in Bowmore or allow the town's well-respected Harbour Inn‘s restaurant to lay out the feast. with dishes such as pan-seared Lagavulin Bay scallops or loin of Islay lamb.
lf admiring living animals is more your bag. Sea Safari cruises around the island will take you to see the seals near Ardbeg and the Dunyvaig castle ruins. You might even catch sight of dolphins. The RSPB operates reserves on the peninsula known as the ()a. where choughs. peregines. golden eagles and more might be sighted. as well as along Loch Gruinart.
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