Islay’s distilleries can be
by boat, while peat cutting is a common sight
lslay‘s geography is not as spectacular as that found further north. lt rather resembles rural Ayrshire. but there is a peacefulness that the mainland has trouble ever matching. Roads with this little traffic make bicycling a pleasure. Villages. such as Port Charlotte. offer country inns where bar staff while away midday shifts with gossip of colleagues. whether word of one gaining an ignominious reputation (as well as the nickname ‘kissing whore‘) or another who‘s not returning for the high season because ‘she's not an island girl‘.
So if you long for illuminations. aside from lighthouses. lslay isn‘t going to cut it. A decent number of natives seemingly remain on lslay (population: 3500). Stitchell. for
example. joined the whisky business as a teen. earning
promotion after promotion until becoming gaffer at (‘aol lla (pronounced roughly kull-eela). Some of his earliest memories are of the raging flames that once fired the stills at nearby Bunnahabhain. where his father worked. He was awed and apparently hooked. Modern distilleries today are different. Nae open fires. to start.
They are virtually factories. lots of ;
mechanised equipment and a just a modicum of visible staff. yet are impressive in their own way. particularly at (‘aol lla where the row of massive teardrop copper stills is set against the backdrop of ceiling to floor windows facing the
narrow Sound of lslay and Paps of
J ura beyond.
While the distillery produces vast amounts of spirit (providing a key part of Johnnie Walker (ireen
98 THE LIST 7? Sep (3 Oct 7005
'1 \‘t
Label). (‘aol lla is arguably the least known of the island‘s seven major whiskies. Still. there’s a knowledgeable following for its l2 or 18-year-old single malts: (‘aol lla is among the top ten sellers at retailer Royal Mile Whiskies in lidinburgh and sales everywhere are apparently growing.
After one full day of cycling sustained by lslay l‘ine l‘ood‘s oak smoked ‘Scottish pastrami‘ and whisky marinated smoked beef a dram or two of (‘aol Ila before dinner soothed any discomfort from saddle sores. Perhaps it is the peat.
FACTFILE
Getting there and around Scottish City Link buses (08/5 050 5050. www.citylink.co.uk) leave Buchanan Bus Station twice a day for Kennacraig, where they link Willi the Caledonian MacBrayne terry seiVices (01880 /80 758. www.calmac.co.uk) to Port Hlen and Port Askaig. British
Airways; (08 70 850 9850. www.brilishainNayscoin) flies from Glasgow tWIce on weekdays and once on Saturday. Cycle hire from Bowmore Post Office, Main Street (01498 810 880).
Accommodation
For bookings call VisitScotland (08452 255 121) or log on to www.visitscotland.com. Rooms at the Harbour Inn, Main Street, Bowmore (01490 810 880. wwwliarbour inn.com) start from 5795 B88. Activities
Caol Ila Distillery near Port Askaig (01490 80? 760) is open weekdays for tours by appointment. Admission (5T4) includes a discount voucher redeemable in the distillery shop. lslay Sea Safari (0/ "/0 845 0000. www.is|ayseasafari.co.uk) runs various tours around the island. including a distillery sightseeing trip. for information on lslay Fine food at Hockside l-arm visit www.islayfiiiefoodconi.
Viewing your favourite painting on its home turf gives the experience that extra edge.
I THE FIGHTING TEMERAIRE, JMW TURNER Recently voted the greatest painting in Britain, Turner's masterpiece can be found alongside Constables Hay Wain and Van Gogh's Sunflowers at the National Gallery in London. GNER train Edinburgh to London: from £91 i- gallery entry: free! (530) Total: £91
I THE BIRTH OF VENUS, SANDRO BOTTIOELLI
The Uffizi (www.polomusealefirenze.il) is one of the world's most famous museums, housing works by Michaelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci, alongside Botticelli's image of Venus. Ryariair flight from Prestwick to Pisa: 5374 i- gallery entry: $34.40 (6.50 Euros)
Total: £78.80
I NU BLEU IV, HENRI MATISSE
Nice was the artist's home for over 80 years and now has an impressive museum displaying this and other well-known pieces such as Jazz — Icare. Globespan flight from Glasgow to Nice: $3120 + gallery entry: $72.70 (4 FuroS) Total £122.70
I FLAG, JASPER JOHNS
The Museum of Modern Art in New York is home to everything from American works such as Johns’ Flag to international pieces such as Starry, Starry Night by Van Gogh. Continental flight from Glasgow to New York: 9530 l gallery entry: L‘ t 0.85 (820)
Total: £540.85
I THE VOICE, EDVARD MUNOH
OK. so it's not The Scream. which was stolen from Oslo's Munch Museet, but it's worth checking out the artist's other work, some of which is almost as good. Ryariair flight from Prestwick to Oslo Torp: £86 + gallery entry: $35.65 (65 NOK) Total: £91.65
All prices are based on a week ’3 stay in October. Currency rates and availability are subject to Change.