JOURNEYS§§
Allan Radcliffe finds there’s more to the FAROE ISLANDS than peace, tranquility and great birdlife.
n a clear day in the Faroe Islands you
can see forever. It’s just that a completely clear day in this part of the
world is hard to come by, as the weather is _
extremely unpredictable and can encompass the proverbial four seasons. I was lucky enough to
arrive on a cloudless. dry evening. and was i granted my first taster of the rugged, grass- .
topped volcanic basalt archipelago rising sheer
out of the Atlantic as the plane descended onto :
the island of Vagar. Prior to visiting. my only perception of the
Faroe Islands had been of a cluster of rocks in the north Atlantic. whose pan-time football team
held a woeful Scottish side to a 2—2 draw in the Euro 2004 qualifiers. And while this cluster of islands doesn't immediately spring to mind as a summer holiday destination. it is actually less remote than it seems. and can be reached in just over an hour from Scotland.
The first thing you notice on disembarking is the proliferation of multicoloured wooden houses with green turfed roofs. These have been a feature of Faroese housing since the islands were first settled in the Viking age and remain for nostalgic and aesthetic reasons, as well as for practical purposes such as insulation. It’s also not uncommon to see sheep grazing on the roof of a house.
Torshavn is the Faroes’ colourful capital. located on the central Streymoy Island. With around 19.000 inhabitants. the town is the closest thing the islands have to a metropolis, proudly fiaunting its status as the smallest capital in the world. Well preserved and picturesque, the centre can also be very lively. particularly during the
summer months. when the islands experience '
some 20 hours of daylight. and locals can be found drinking and socialising until the wee hours.
Most of the people you talk to in Torshavn take pride in the town's blend of the historic and modern. Brand new restaurants. hotels. discos
and cinemas stand alongside quaint stone
buildings that have existed since the Viking age. The pretty Undir Ryggi or ‘old quarter’ is also home to several Faroese government buildings and the parliament or ‘thing’ (pronounced ‘ting’), which also has its origins in Viking times.
But it is the Faroes’ spectacular scenery that 7
really impresses; the many peaks and cairn- marked trails mean these islands are the ultimate getaway for lovers of the rugged outdoors. Yet,
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the undoubted highlight of my three-day
whistlestop tour was a boat trip to the bird cliffs at Vestmanna. Despite being possessed of a sturdy pair of sea
legs, as well as the virtually unheard-of
phenomenon of a bright. calm day, I was unprepared for the dramatic sailing that ensued. The boat had barely left the bay at Vestmanna before the sea started rolling faster and higher, to the extent that our vessel was rising up the huge waves and slapping back down again, causing more than a few stomachs to churn.
However, this slightly hair-raising journey was more than compensated for by the encounter with the birds. Ornithologists have identified around 300 species here. and the boat trip allows fairly close contact with the colonies of puffins. gulls, shags, guillemots, oyster-catchers and cormorants that inhabit the cliff ledges and individual edifices.
While as yet largely undiscovered as a holiday destination, this place offers a taste of something completely different. Just remember the golden rule — be prepared. With such erratic conditions. you‘re never going to be able to travel light in the Faroes.
www.visit-faroeislands.com
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, FACT FILE
Where are the Fame islands? Set in the middle of the north Atlantic halfway between Norway and Iceland, the Faroe Islands are a self-governing region of Denmark, made up of 18 islets with the capital Tcrshavn sitting on the largest one, Streymoy. The islands are made ; up of layers of volcanic basalt and generally slope ‘ dramatically downwards. from the high westerly cliffs to the gentle shorelines on the east. Why visit? The main reason to take a trip to the Faroe Islands is for the sense of peace and quiet of an archipelago that is relatively undiscovered by tourists. The population of just under 50.000 is . concentrated in and around the capital, but outwith this there is plenty of dramatic scenery to explore. What m «fin? For nature lovers there can be nothing better than taking one of the popular trips from Vestmanna to see the amazing bird cliffs and fjords. As well as seeing thousands of birds, you might also spot seals in some of the quieter grottos. Have a look at www.puffin.fo/skuvadal for ideas. Weather permitting. you can explore the isles on horseback or try your hand at a spot of fishing. www.visit-faroeislands.com has details of these activities and more. Where to stay? The Hotel Feroyar in Tcrshavn, which has an excellent seafood restaurant. will set you back around £105 a night for a double room. Luckily it also runs a decent youth hostel with great views. A two-bed room is a more reasonable £18 per person. Visit www.hotelforoyar.com. How to get. there? Atlantic Airlines has recently opened up a summer flight route from Edinburgh to the Faroe Islands that runs every Saturday. At the time of writing. a return flight for a week in August from Edinburgh costs around £165. Go to www.atlantic.fo.