DES...“ THE
These hard to reach spots are perfect for those who really want to get away from it all and I
discover the most unexposed corners of the country. FEELS MORE LIKE THE CENTRE OF THE WORLD THAN THE EDGE
Forge bar. which proudly boasts the title of most remote pub on the British mainland. It was only after spending an evening in this thriving watering hole that I realised that. despite our best intentions. this wasn’t quite going to be the back— to-nature trip we had planned. My visions of detox in the wilderness had blurred after a few pints. washed down by conversations with the regulars and some tunes on the banjo courtesy of our waiter at the Pier House. It may be far-flung. but Knoydart is just like any other place at heart.
What I realise now is that if I'd really wanted peace and quiet (and let's face it. I'm a party girl at heart) I should have gone to Doune. a small settlement further round the peninsula from Inverie. Here a cluster of houses. a lodge and an accomplished dining room cater for people who want to really get away from it all. But it was on the boat ride over to it that I got my first reminder of what was happening in the rest of the world as a fellow passenger informed me of the latest body count in London. I had a brief moment of panic — what if a friend was injured. or worse? How would anyone get in touch with me when there was no mobile reception“? Then. as we moved out of the bay and passed a group of seals resting on the rocks with their pups. my phone suddenly found a signal. No news turned out to be good news. and I wasn‘t so far from home after all.
The Pier House, Inverie, 01687 462347, www.thepierhouseknoydart.co.uk. Doune Lodge and Dining Room, Doune, 01687 462667, www.doune-knoydart.co.uk. The Old Forge, Inverie, 01687 462267 www.theoldforge.co.uk
Ardnamurchan peninsula
As far west as you can go on the British mainland, this peninsula feels a bit like the edge of the world. Driving by car is a rather tortuous experience. with the road getting more narrow towards the end. but the trip is worth it. Ardnamurchan Point offers lovely sandy beaches. views of the Hebrides. plus the possibility of seeing whales and golden eagles. How to get there Boats run from Tobermory to the town of Kilchoan. Go to www.calmac.co.ul< for details.
Fair Isle
Halfway between Orkney and the Shetlands. this petite isle is most famous for its knitwear and as a sea area on the shipping forecast. It's only 5km long and 3km wide, and many visitors flock to its bird observatory. where during the spring and autumn migrations it is possible to see some of the rarest birds in Britain.
How to get there By boat from Sumburgh and Lerwick on Shetland. or by plane from Lerwick. Go to www.fairlsle.org.uk for details.
Mull of Galloway
Remote doesn‘t always have to mean visiting the windy north. This sunny spot is the southernmost tip of Scotland and home to many subtropical species at the Logan Botanic Gardens. The nearby RSPB reserve attracts hundreds of razorbills. kittiwakes and shags. while the lighthouse affords great views as far as the Isle of Man. How to get there Public transport is limited. but more details can be found on www.mull-of—gal|oway.co.uk.
Rannoch Moor
Located not far from the tourist and walkers' mecca of Glencoe. Rannoch Moor is an eerie and largely deserted area that consists mainly of small Iochs and peat bogs surrounded by mountains. In spite of this. or perhaps because of it. the area has a melancholy beauty to it that encapsulates the wilderness heart of Scotland. How to get there The train from Glasgow to Fort William stops at Rannoch station. Go to www. flrstgroup. com/scotral/ for details.
Sandwood Bay
Located on the ominous sounding Cape Wrath in the far north west. Sandwood can only be reached along a single track road. From the car park it is another couple of miles' walk down to the bay itself. where huge sea stacks. a Stevenson lighthouse and the impressive Clo Mor cliffs await. How to get there A minibus runs out to the bay every day from Keodale. near Dumess. See www.capewrathorguk for details.
St Kilda
Its permanent residents were evacuated in 1930. and this chain of islands. 50 miles to the west of Harris. is now home to around two million birds. such as puffins and gannets. The stunning sea stacks include some of the highest in Britain. while on the main island of Hirta you can visit the preserved village complete with school. church and houses. or enjoy a pint in the Puff Inn military bar. How to get there Ferry day trips usually leave from Harris every morning and take two and a half hours. depending on the weather. Go to www.k/ldacrulses.co.uk and www. wilderness soot/and. com.
I For more details on accommodation and activities, call WsitScotland on 0845 2255121
21 Jul—4 Aug 2005 THE LIST 15