in the morning and reheated for customers. When it‘s gone. that's it.
At (ilasgnw's Liquid Ship pub near St (ieorge‘s ('ross in (ireat Western Road. some punters haxe found they had better get there early to be guaranteed a ltill gra/e ol’ the menu. Run by the team behind Strayaigin restaurant. it was intended to he only a bar. But nwner/ehel ('olin (‘lydesdale was ennyineed that any place associated with Strayaigin had to offer l'nnd. Only one problem: nae kitchen.
‘I ney er used a panini machine hel‘ore l.iquid Ship.‘ eonl'esses Clydesdale. '.\'ow we have one at Strayaigin.‘ The selection of pieces at Liquid Ship ineludes everything Iron] a Thai Blfl‘ tn the ‘Andalueiatf with ehnri/o. sun- hlusli tomatoes. garlie mushroom and .larlsherg cheese. (‘lydesdale thinks that the sandwiches are more ‘pi'eeious‘ than he originally enyisioned. ‘llut making a really niee sandwieh takes time.. he says.
The bar uses the same suppliers as the other Strayaigin operations. where the kitchens also turn nut the dressings iised at Liquid Ship.
And so it comes back to the quality of ingredients. At Kemher & .lnnes liine l-‘nnd limpnrium nn Byres Road. Phil Kemher and (‘Iaire .lones have made certain that the prnduee they source and sell from the deli is also used in the dishes the eale prepares. No panini maeliines or mierowayes here. but erowds nonetheless queue for salads such as Roquel‘ort. pear and walnut or sandwiches like serrann ham. pesto and sun-blush tnmatnes.
l'sing ‘gond quality ingredients and keeping it simple.‘ Kemher says. has made the difference. The seeond seeret ol' K&J's success is the 'l'aet that we are both here. There aren‘t many plaees where the owners are always around.‘
Back in lidinhurgh‘s Old Town. Alexander (another owner who is always on the premises) is whining some gai'lie at 4.30pm tor the following day‘s specials. What would he most desire it the
restrictions on Spoon enuld be loosened'.’ An men for baking. he says. .-\nd he has seen some high tech models that don‘t need extraction; they re-eireulate air and giye nt'l‘ practically no heat. Perhaps the rule makers need tn revisit the laws.
112 THE LIST 3'5 Apt-13 May 2305
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The wonder beers
These days there are hundreds of imported lagers and beers on offer, many claiming exotic geneses for their products. Doug Johnstone sampled a few and their accompanying banter to see if they matched up.
Cusquena
The blurb: 'Produced near the mystical lost City of Machu Picchu usmg pure mountain water from a source at 18.000 feet in the Andes . . . the Gold of the Incas is here!‘ Some fine hyperbole. excellent use of an anCient CiVilisation to afford the lager some graVitas. Who the hell wouldn't want to drink “the Gold of the Incas"? II...
The beer: It might be the PeruVian market leader. but Cusouena Is nothing too speCial. A rather gassy affair With a slightly metallic aftertaste. its clean enough on the palette. but it's hardly a party in y0ur mouth. Makes for a decent enough holiday lager in a hot climate. OI.
Baltika Classic
The blurb: "A beer With a wonderful taste of malt and the aroma of hops. Its popularity among beer lovers is Justifiable. This beer is brewed for you!‘ Bland patter in the extreme. Brewed in St Petersburg. yet no mention of Rasputin or Bussen royalty. Imagine. ‘the beer of the Tsars and Tsarinasf' OppOrtunity missed. I
The beer: Comes in a 500ml bottle. which is always nice. A distinctly aCIdic lager with a tangy aftertaste. reminiscent of a Czech pilsner in a lot of respects. but less sophisticated. A decent glugging lager. but nothing out the ordinary. III
Lefte Blond
The blurb: Traces its origins back to the Abbey Notre Dame de Lefte. founded in 1 152. The monks hand- crafted their Own beer With an almost religious dedication acc0rding to the strict rules at this period Lovely scene
setting — you can almost smell the pious devotion to boo/e that must've permeated the Cloisters. Praise be. III.
The beer: Fantastic, frankly. The Belgians know a thing or two about beer. and Lefte Blond is up there With the best. Aromatic and sweet. with a delicate creamy maltiness. it manages to pack a 6.6”}. alcohol punch WlillOlll being Sickly or blowing your head off. II...
Tiger Beer
The blurb: ‘ln parts of NOrthern Vietnam, the first rite of passage for a newborn baby is a beer bath. Proud
parents choose Tiger Beer to bless the
birth of baby boys. Sadly, baby girls are not so lucky. they have to make do With inferior. cheaper beer?" Obscure. yet erratically brilliant banter. and they later claim Anthony Burgess as a big fan. Tells yOu nothing about the beer. except it's good for bathing babies. I...
The beer: Surprismgly cultured and mature lager. The biggest seller in Singapore and lode—China, Tiger was voted Best Lager in the Werld by the 1998 Brewing Industry International Awards. Nice and smooth for a lager. With Citrus Overtones and a clean finish. its reminiscent of MeXican glugger COrona. only with far more balls about it. III.
WHERE TO DRINK THEM Indigo Yard 7 Charlotte Lane. Edinburgh 0131 220 5603 Circus Cafe 15 North West Circus Place. Edinburgh 0131 220 0333 Brunswick Hotel Brunswick Street. Glasgow 0141 552 0001 Salty Dog Princes So. Glasgow 0141 221 7800
SideDishes
News to nibble on . . .
I Congratulations to reader Emma Stewart of Abington, who has won a two-night break for two at Glenmorangie House in the Highlands. She was chosen from the many who returned a feedback form from last year's Eating 8 Drinking Guide. This year we want to hear from you, too. Please visit www.list.co.uk and tell us about recent dining experiences, good or bad.
I Fans of South Australian Wines might Wish to book a seat at a special meal and tutored tasting at the Scotsman Hotel's Vermilion restaurant led by D‘Arry Osborn of the d'Arenberg winery in McLaren Vale. The four-course dinner with matching wines is at 7pm on Wednesday 1 1 May. Tickets are $90. 0131 556 5565.
I If you favour wines with more punch, don’t miss an upcoming Slow Food event. On Sunday 8 May at the Edinburgh Sheraton, the group is sponsoring a tasting with over 30 fortified wines, from Port and Madiera to Sherry and Maury. There will also be a selection of cheeses, fish and sweets. The event begins at 1pm and entry costs £15 for members (£20 for non-members).
I National Vegetarian Week is at the end of May and the City Cafe in Glasgow's City Inn always marks the occasion with a speCial menu. They promise fresh. seasonal ingredients in dishes such as feta and potato frittata with cucumber and red onion salad or grilled aubergine topped with spiced guacamole and olive oil bread crumbs. The menu (two courses for £11.50) runs from 23-28 May. 0141 2271010.
I Side Dishes has been imbibing Manhattan cocktails of late, due to delivery of some Bulleit Bourbon. The Bulleit family has been brewing a smooth blend with a higher than normal ratio of rye since the 18308. It only reached the UK recently and a few bars have it: Edinburgh’s Montpelier group outlets, such as Opal Lounge and Indigo Yard, and the Living Room in Glasgow. Selected Sainbury’s also stock it