Enjoying
EAT THERE THIS FORT NIGHT
Sometimes, ‘homemade’ can really mean what it says
Less can be more
They may not have full-fledged kitchens, but a Clutch of ventures are doing an awful lot despite some formidable limitations. Barry Shelby investigates.
THE HITLIST
I Café Marina 61 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh, 0131 622 7447 I Kember & Jones
Fine Food Emporium 134 Byres Road, Glasgow. 0141 337 3851 I Liquid Ship 171 Great Western Road. Glasgow, 0141 331 1901 I Spoon 15 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh, 0131 556 6922, For full details, please see The List Eating & Drinking Guide.
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countr} that pridex itxell’ on the rule ol |a\\ ix hound to ha\e a lioxt ol regulationx intended to protect the health and xal'et_\ ol' itx citi/cnx. In the catering tradex. there are certainl} no xhot'tag‘ex ol dil'ecti\e\ and decl'eex. Hot to mention licencex and conxentx l'or thix and lot" that. l’erhapx the} Inn e all made thix a xalcr nation. But the} aim explain at leaxt. in part \\h_\ Scotland ix ne\er likel} to t‘exemhle one ol thoxe cottlilt'iex “here lood xtallx are common at xti‘eet cornerx \\iliiL‘ e\ei‘} other har. deli and xhop ma) xurprixe )ou \\ ith a hot. l'rexh|_\ cooked delicacy I)expite the rextrictionx placed on them. a number ol' cal’ex. lood xhopx and harx manage to produce imaginame and \xholexome l'are. With one prmerhial hand tied hehind their hackx. thexe lood hei'oex pi'o\ c that Iexx can he more. When Richard ;\le\ander took out a hiiotl collee xhop ill Blackli‘iarx Street. lidinhurgh. he knexx that there \\ottid he limitationx. 'l'he lormer Rogue and llil/liic‘lll'} chel’ looked at
hix optiollx tno open lialttex ot‘ o\'elt.x due to SENSITIVELY,
a redundant extraction
l'att that took the
thatth otlt the hack ol the building rather
than to the top) and decided that Spoon might juxt \\ot'k
2m) CHUTNEY TO
()perating with a A panini machine. ' electric grill. l\\o DUCK LEG microxxznex and a xoup kettle. Spoon‘x output ix ne\ er going to ri\a| a lull-xcale rextaurant. But that\ ()K hecauxe dinerx \\1tlll alternatnex. ‘l’eople come here Mr \\ hat \\e do.' :\|e\andet‘ \a_\x. lnno\'ati\e xoupx. haker} goodx and xa\our} tartx. l‘or example. 01‘ xand\\ichex and xaladx made \‘tilL‘ll ordered. "l‘he_\‘re coml'ortahle in the knimledge that \\ hat theyre getting ix good tor them.‘
One kc} ix not hit} ing in xtul‘l'. Here onl} the mullinx are not made by Alexander. who prepx in the xhop hut doex an} item} dut_\ cooking elxeuhere. l’lux. ax the old xa_\ing goex. necexxit} ix the mother ol‘ imention. .'\|e\ander hax hecome creatiVe \\ ith that xcourge ol‘ the poxh kitchen. the microuaxe. l'xed xenxitiVel}. it can produce aii_\thing l'rom chutne} to a conlit duck leg that then can he uxed to create a rillette.
l’inall}. the xo—called haxe ingredientx are important. ('reate a 'xhit-hot' drexxing lrom xcratch. Alexander xa} x. and dinerx \\ ill lea\e imprexxed. He ix regular!) axked l'or hix recipex.
[p the Roin Mile and dou n ('ockhurn Street. ('al'e Marina ma} tune the l‘ull-xcale kitchen that Spoon lackx. hut xpace ix tight and an alcohol licence ix lacking. Still. owner Marina ('rolla compenxatex \\ ith plent} ol‘ ebullient perxonality and a regularly changing array ol’ Italian-inl'luenced goodx l'rom meatloal‘ to paxta. hreaded chicken hreaxt to xandu'ichex oi Parma ham. tomato and mouarella. The hot l'ood ix prepared
9;. a, .2 THE LIST 111