. ur; a?” '. V-Y§*,_y J ‘t
. «3:... «a.
.' I l.- s 5",
s 1'
-_ .. >\ \/\a. ' ",>‘\'- -‘ u
s I "c "' if" s . i ‘ I .
Spain ping
«43; a, (190..
1. ' -.' ;~ 5W a q. --.-
\ "‘\ i i .I t t g ,\ , - XIV
, ' ‘ i
‘N Q‘S‘JT:.' . v" ~ . . f. , J ‘ ' I
Rachael Street falls in love with the spectacle of Seville and the splendour of Granada.
hile it may seetn insane
to compare any part of
Spain to Scotland. there is something about the Andalucian cities of Seville and Granada that is strangely reminiscent of Glasgow and Iidinburgh. Seville. in the west of the province. is a stylish and proud city. with a classical Spanish identity and a wide river running through it. Further to the east. Granada is a much more laid back student town. dominated by an impressive hilltop castle. the Alhambra. which brings in thousands of tourists each year. All this may sound familiar. but thankfully this is where the similarities end as the climate. cuisine and history are a world away from those at home. The Spanish cities‘ rivalries are petty. yet any visitor to them both cannot help but set them side by side. weighing the drama of Seville against the beauty of Granada.
Walking the streets Set in the very south of Spain. both cities enjoy gorgeous sunny
weather. with temperatures in Seville often reaching 40 degrees in July and August. When the heat gets too much the narrow. high streets of Seville's numerous ‘barrios' (or quarters) offer shade and lots of interesting sights. such as intricate wrought iron work. bright decorative tiles or simply a trail of bright pink flowers down a wall. The most popular (and touristy) of the barrios is Santa
Cruz. But there are still plenty of
untouched corners to discover and the beautiful Alca/ar gardens to rest in. Further north. the barrio Macarena is much quieter. with a church or convent on practically every corner. while across the river Triana is the home of decorative ceramic tile making and has some excellent riverside bars. Travelling I30 miles east to Granada. the temperature is generally a few degrees lower. which probably has
something to do with the magnificent Sierra Nevada
mountains that provide a backdrop to the city. Here. the sprawling hilltop Albaicin is a great place to
TRAVEL
Granada's Moorish heritage (left) contrasts with the gothic architecture of Seville's cathedral (below)
ALBAICIN IS A GREAT PLACE TO WANDER, TAKING IN INCREDIBLE VIEWS OF THE ALHAMBRA FORTRESS
wander. taking in incredible views of the Alhambra fortress that towers over the city and exploring the maze of streets that snake through some of the more undisturbed parts of town back towards the river. The most amazing place to explore is the palace itself. something that no visitor to the city should miss.
History
Throughout the province. the former presence of the Moors is still very much in evidence. which is not surprising since Andalucia was their main European stronghold for seven centuries. Although the
('hristian reconquest overtook much of Seville's lslamic heritage. there is still a powerful reminder of the struggle in the city crest. which adorns every pavement. lamppost and wall. The slogan '.\'o S Do" is a cryptic translation of ‘you have not deserted me'; a statement made by King Alfonso to reward his people's loyalty when he made a truce with the Moors. The other major Islamic marker left on the city is the '(iiralda' or bell tower of the cathedral. which used to be the minaret of the old mosque. The main body was almost completely demolished to make way for what is now one of the largest gothic cathedrals in the world and a monument to the ('hristians' domination. By contrast. (iranada lives forever in the shadow of its Moorish ancestors. who were responsible for the incredible Alhambra that sits at the heart of the city. Built as a city fortress. the palace has three separate areas: the crumbling battlements that look out across the town to the countryside beyond. the beautiful Generalife
;' v‘.i‘::'—‘-1 r51} 27/", THE LIST 1 13