Food Drink
eat@list.co.uk
Eat out, drink up
Stayrn' in tne‘hood
Some sublime dining experiences in Glasgow and Edinburgh can be found
lit/y city centre restaurants often
command the most attention. htrt
not all our focus needs to he on the high profile operators. Some of the more pleasant dining experiences in (ilasgow and lidinhurgh are found in neighlmurhood restaurants. usually owner operated. where the greeting is genuine and the cooking atrthentic. This is why The [J's-1's forthcoming [faring Al Drinking (irrrrlr' awards includes a new category for best neighbourhood restaurant. Here are a few examples. excerpted from our liming A'-
l)r1'rr/\'1'rrg (Jun/e. published 2‘) April. of
places that our reViewers helieve merit the effort to lind them.
Glasgow
Gingerhill
l Hrllhead Street. l\4rlngawre. (ll-'1‘. 9:36 esrs Wed—Sun 7-~-E).3()prrt. Closed Mon Tue. Adventurers who make rt out to the ‘burbs ot Mrlngavre can trnd thrs treasure just two rnrnt tes frorn the r'arl\.'.’a§.' statron. Chef and proprretor Alan Burns rs more Interested rn food and hosprtalrty than desrgner drnrng or a fancy locatron. In drnky. unasstrrnrng prernrses he knocks out dc-lrg'ntful. ur usual and rnostt‘,’ seafood drshes '.'."t'n a talent borderrng on alchemy Seared trliet of sea brean‘. rs sen'ed on a pm, lentrl salad crrcted by, a sweet potato puree and topped '.'.'rth ax'r‘uga cavrar. lhe slots; roasted slrce of pork bell; and cararnelrsed caulrfiox'xer puree works tantastrcallg. 2.'.'rth seared scallops and horseradrsh Dauphrnorse. Regulars prarse (Srngerhrlt to the skies. though they rnrght be better adx'rsed to keep rt a secret.
No Sixteen
if} B\, res Road. l'lrélhead 013.1 1-339 2:").1-2 Mon~Sat noon» 2.30pm 25.13%)- itlprt‘: S rn 12.30— -’1[)l‘.‘. fi.il()—-€l.(%t)pn‘.
No Sixteen rernarns one of the best [)l£l(3(:f; to eat rn Glasgow. hue. the saluaged cnurcn furnrture rs perr'rously close to the !:ne betz'xeen char'rrtrng and uncornfortat>re. but one can overlook the odd rrcket‘, pen-x tor drshes as f;(;(ltr(;’.".(i as tr'uffle‘scented sauteed lorn of rabbrt :1:th narley.’ rrsotto and beetroot syrup - or roast co<' .'.’llll trger ora‘xxns. cur‘r‘re~:l leeks. uacon and ct‘.'.e sauce. lhe gualrtr, of rngredrents rs excellent. the cookrng rs assured and the corr‘nrriatrons rsuch as duck '.'/rth cauirflorcuer puree: are creatr‘.e and fashionable '\.'.’lill()tll fSlY'él\)'rlltl .nto srllrness.
Roma Mia
it)". Darnlex,’ Street. Pollokshrclds ()l‘Zl «1953 (3694. Mon- Sa! noon ?.i;’;prn. 5.1%) tuitllpnt; Sunfiflf) lt)..’%f)prrx
Roma Mra rs a real treasure of a nerghbou'ltood restaurant. salute a .'l‘(-.'t: four tr‘rtttrle trarn rrde ‘r- ‘. re (:rt‘}, (;(:".‘.lt:{:1'r‘ttgttOT; any excuse for rvn '.»'.~i.rtlt:‘,.'iers not "ake tine tr:p. ()Jrner
l‘/lH‘.‘1,'tl‘-’) t )r;';':r’, extewrr the .'.‘a'rr‘est of
118 THE LIST
‘~.'.r'elcorr‘.es. Among the rnarn courses rs saltrrnbocca alla rornana_ a satrsfyrng and generous portron of thrnl‘,‘ slrced zeal topped wrth Par'rrta ham and sauttéed rn ‘.'-.rhrte 2.'.rrne and sage. For dessert the tartufo rs huger antlulgent: a rrch chocolate rce cream bornbe .'.'rth a truffle-flavorrred centre.
The New Bell
731% Ctttlf;(3‘.'.’£t‘;.'f3l(it}. Newrngton {)1131 (368 2868 MonSun sso» l()pn‘.
C(‘tllf;(}‘.'.’£t\,’f‘)l(it} that; seen“ a long to :enture rf {.ou don't he on the Southsrde of
l d'nbtrr‘gh. but for sonic- rnsprreo cookrng the rxlec.’ Bell rs ‘.'.rorth the trrn Richard and lvlrchelle l tellers arr‘,‘ rs "to pr‘ox'oe ‘.'.’()l‘.t)er'ltl| food. beautrtull‘, t)-'()fl(}r‘.l(:-(i rn a fr'rendrg, atn‘ospnere'. lhe; succeed adnxrr‘abtg. A rnorst frilet of pan frred sea bass rs draped over a generous round of crearrty satt’ror‘. n‘ash. surrounded by a red pepper butter sauce and topped \.'.'rth grrlled asparagus. A starter o‘ haggrs crepe '.'.'rth .‘xhrskg sauce and topped .'.’ITl‘. deep frred leeks rr‘ay sound lrke a strck‘,’ tourrst trap of a drslt. but rs utterly <l()il(;!()tlf;. lne ‘.'./rne lrst rs brref but
excelent and the pre theatre rnenu IS‘1().E)5> tor
tu'xo :our'ses. E‘tizot) for three, fabulous \(tltlfl'.
La Partenope
Qt} Dalr‘, Road. Darn. ()‘rI-Sl WM {-5880
Mon 5) llpnt: lue lhu noon 2pm.
{uprn ‘Ilprn: Fr! noon Qprr‘. s tl.-'-:'>pn‘. Sat noon liglopn‘
Not many places can get a.'.'a=,' ‘.'.rrth callrng ferr‘ale customers 'prrncess' and male drners 'boss'. but tnrs restaurant n‘anages to pull rt off. Under the S3l(3‘.‘.’£tt(lf$llll) of ltosar‘ro Cartore. the (:trrsrne of Naples '3; sened rn Just the krnd of place that would make an; Neapoltan feel right at non‘e. lvlarn courses are :rnpressrxre. ‘.'.'hether s‘.'.rord frslt cooked .'.';tl‘. cheese and proscrutto or a gargantuan seafood platter of trger pran'xns. calarr‘arr. scallops. sea brearr‘ and sea be ss that dares to Include trgntl; floured fried scan‘pr. Judgrng by the nurnber of regulars .'.'ho corr‘e here. the popularrh, of la Partenope
;uncl‘allenged.
Sweet Melindas
'.‘. ltoseneath Street. Marchn‘ont 111611 77E) «Hind. Mon /' ~l()pn‘: lrre Sat noon 7pm.
/' ltlprn. (Zlosed Sun.
\‘Jhen thrs trny restaurant opened rn 190/. the nerghl)ourhood ‘.‘.'as gurck to take rt to rts heart. the old church charrs n‘ar, have gone and now :,r:sp lrnen br=ngs a touch of sophrstrcatron. btrt the bare wood floors. gunk shop prctur‘es and easy gorng char'rn haven't changed. l rsh (lt)ll‘.llt£ti(3§3 the menu fresh and rrnagrrratr\.~el\,' cooked. Wrsps of crrsp sdurd are scattered over salad leaves and seasoned wrth lrrrre rurce and rock salt. y'rxhrle a ‘.'./edge of cod rs roasted and sauced u'xrth sesarrre and grnger. W=th genral ser‘xrce and a lrst of .l() or so well chosen .‘.’!l res. S‘s/eel Melrnt las rs a s‘.'./eetre rndeer l.
off the beaten track.
Roma Mia
The New Bell