BAGKLIST
Irooo
I hot oil. Cook very quickly (about 1
E lplump pheasant ‘ 11/2 oz butter
ltbspsoil
lsliced onion
minute each side) turning once. Pour offthe fat. add l—21bsps Drambuie and flame. shaking the pan;
extinguish the flames with a squeeze 1/2 oz flour oflemon. 1/2 pint good tasty cider Serve on a bed of pilau rice 2 1 orange
garnished with salad leaves and watercress or perhaps a creamy pure’e ofcelleriac or sweet potato. or on a salad. Whichever way. get it to the table quickly, as venison needs to
bouquet garni thin slices oforange a few browned almonds salt and pepper Joint the pheasant into 4 pieces. dry
PHEASANT WITH CIDER AND ORANGE
well and saute in the hot butter and oil until a light brown on both sides: remove to a casserole. Cook the ? sliced onion in the butter until 3- golden. sprinkle on the flour and cook for one minute; draw the pan off the stove. wait for the sizzling to cease and add the elder. Bring to the
I // EATRE l 'l h' k' dd ' l' 3 . )()l .w is ing.a somejuienne N T 2 strips oforange rind and the juice of
3 H l N 9 l A V 3 T. E n ' " 3 u A 9 I' ' one orangezseason and pourover the pheasant. Add a bouquet garni and cook. well covered. in a slow 1 iam~8pm oven (300F. 150C. Gas Mark 2). or simmer very gently on the stove until just tender. Correct the seasoning. (Remove the pheasant joints and boil the sauce hard. uncovered. to reduce if it is too copious)
Serve surrounded by thin slices of orange and scatter over a few browned almonds.
Both recipes taken from Nicola Cox on Game Cookery (Gollancz
£18. 95).
Nichola Fletcher's book is called
be eaten hot.
Serves 3—4
£5.25
Ala Carte
Table reservations o mu
031 929 8663 from 9 December
ROYAL lYCEIlM THEATRE
/u\
CATHEDRALHOLISE [:1
I:I
DOWNSTAIRS
28 - 32 CATHEDRAL SQUARE, GLASGOW
041 552 3519 (NEXT TO STRATHCLYDE UNIVERSITY & OPPOSITE GLASGOW CATHEDRAL)
BAR - CAFE
103m - MIDNIGHT
7 DAYS
FOOD
AVAILABLE ALL DAY
LIVE MUSIC TUES, THURS & SAT
(Programme will be in next issue of The List)
Game For All With A Flavour of Scotland (Gollancz £10. 95).
, George Bower, Game Butcher. 75
Raeburn Place. Edinburgh. 031332
3469.
Rannoch Smokery, Kinloch Rannoch. Pit/ocliry. Perthshire PH16 5QD (08822 344) is a
; wholesale and retail supplier to places
I including ( 'afe Gandolfi. 64 Albion
Street. Glasgow (04] 552 6813).
V IN PRINT The
Bulargettalle Blair: ll
Econ RONAY ’ fa:
I The Unlorgettable Dishes oi My Lite Egon Ronay (Sphere. £5.99) It sounds like a spoofof a Sinatra classic to me — but Egon doesn’t see
the joke. taking himselfand his
culinary tales very seriously. Each of his recipes is preceded by its own nostalgic anecdote — we are not offered mere sustenance but a taste of a whole chauffeur-driven world centred on Maxim‘s and the venerables of the Academic des Gastronomes. where major disasters are farmed carp and corked burgundy. The dishes themselves are eclectic. from Gnocchi Romana to Chinese Long-braised Knuckle of Pork to The Cassoulet of Languedoc. but all reflect a particular conception of cooking. This is definitely cooking. none ofyour modern assemblage, but the old-school art — soups and casseroles based on rich meat stocks or court bouillons of carefully combined herbs and vegetables. and meticulous method. Exquisite. no doubt. and one or two are relatively simple and affordable. but not for vegetarians or the squeamish — unless you fancy sauerkraut cooked in ‘one bottle of champagne and half a bottle ofgood white burgundy‘. Some ingredients like rabbit carcases, goose gizzards, shallots and baby spinach may be accessible to the French smallholder, but the average Safeways shopper might have problems. (CF)
FLAVOUR OF THE FORTNIGHT
IGG’S
A Taste ol Scotland restaurant, lgg’s manages to combine Scottish produce and French expertise to great eltect. This trout recipe -a recent invention oi chel Cole Maguire — is particularly delicious. He serves it with a splendilerous garnish ol lemon halves, thyme sprigs and pared vegetables.
Rainbow Trout with Pink Peppercorns
Serves one:
1 oz unsalted butter 6—702 rainbow trout lillet 1 tsp Baies Roses peppercorns sprig thyme
bayleal
1 linely chopped shallot
4 ll oz lish stock
2 ll 02 white wine
2 ll 02 double cream
2 tbsps hollandaise sauce 1/2 lemon
salt
ground white pepper Sauce:
2 egg yolks
1 tsp tarragon vinegar
1 tsp water
4 oz clarilied butter lemon or orange juice
For the hollandaise sauce, place the egg yolks into a stainless steel bowl with water and vinegar. Whisk over a pan ol boiling water until the eggs are
Cole Maguire shares the secret at his Rainbow Trout recipe
lrothy and quite stilt, then slowly add butter, still whisking. Season with lemon juice.
To prepare the dish itsell, put butter in a warm saucepan. Add shallot, peppercorns and herbs. Place the trout in the pan, pour on the lish stock and white wine and cover with a tight lid. Simmer on a low heat tor two minutes. Remove trout and keep warm on serving plate. Add cream to the cooking juice and reduce to a thick syrupy consistency. Finally told the hollandaise sauce through this peppercorn sauce and coat the trout.
lgg’s, 15Jeltrey Street, Edinburgh, 031 557 8184.
I“ 78 The List 25 October — 7 November 1991