FOOD & DRINK RECENT OPENINGS
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IT’S GETTING HOT IN HERE
Rum, spice and a warm welcome – Ailidh Forlan finds plenty to recommend at the bright, buzzy Trenchtown Carribean Social Club
V ibrant, exotic and all the ‘tings’ Edinburgh was craving; Trenchtown Social nourishes with hearty Caribbean food and energising dance beats. Dive into a buttery puddle of plump garlic and chilli BBQ king prawns, or nibble away at panko- coated fiery fried squid, each dish a complex layering of spice with scotch bonnet undertones, eased by fresh pineapple or creamy coconut. Next up, the comforting stodge of traditional dumplings dunked into fragrant curried goat, or heavenly Trinidad-seasoned jerk pork belly on sweet potato mash – and if you’re struggling with the heat, it’s the perfect excuse to sample a dangerously moreish Trenchtini or two. There’s something addictive about this ‘social club’. Familiar reggae tunes and colourful Jamaican-inspired graffiti take you to a happier place, all topped off by laid-back staff who have the balance just right. The team behind Trenchtown – former owners of Tuk Tuk and current owners of Lancers – clearly know how to generate a buzz thanks to the rare authenticity of rich, unrivalled flavour. True, there could be a stronger focus on local sourcing, but you’re in safe hands here.
TRENCHTOWN CARIBBEAN SOCIAL CLUB
4–8 Lochrin Buildings, Gilmore Place, Tollcross, Edinburgh, EH3 9NB, 0131 623 6786, trenchtownsocial.com
£16 (lunch/dinner)
The best of the new restaurant, café and bar openings in Glasgow and Edinburgh. Prices shown are for an average two-course meal for one.
Glasgow KOELSCHIP YARD
BARS & PUBS
686–688 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, koelschipyard.beer, £8 (bar snacks) No Tennent’s, no pints, no cash. The owners have certainly transformed this old Southside pub (previously Kelly’s), with no apologies for only serving craft beer, and only in two-third pints. No kitchen either, but Scotch eggs and charcuterie are fantastic, full of depth from good produce. A fair whack of the 16 lines and the bottles are lambic, gose or wild, in gloriously funky flavours. Hoppy pale ale drinkers are well catered for, but the obscure stuff stands out – from Flemish producers through to modern masters Mikkeller, while other taps dedicate themselves to particular breweries.
BASTA PIZZA BAR
561 Dumbarton Road, West End, 0141 339 8698, bastapizza.com, £12 (lunch/dinner) This compact spot in Partick’s outer reaches specialises in just pizza, but delivers it with soul, style and a fair bit of funk. Great music runs right through the place – as does a nice eye for design – all tinged with a welcome 1970s vibe. Run by locals who, after years working hospitality for the man, named their place after the Italian for ‘enough!’, Basta does pizza all the way – besides a handful of snacks and simple salads.
And those pizzas are easily good enough to carry the menu and nicely priced too. Licence is pending so BYOB if you want to really get lost in the music.
PIANOLA & CO ITALIAN BISTRO
240 Crow Road, West End, 0141 334 6171, pianolaglasgow.co.uk, £11.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner) What was once a motor parts shop has undergone a startling transformation into an Italian bistro, courtesy of the folks who own nearby Kothel. Monochrome checked floor, wood panelling, brass and glass twinkling around the bar, upholstered seats at the huge windows – it’s a handsome number, oozing continental panache. The Italian food on offer is a fairly unfussy, traditional delve into classics, all well delivered with good quality produce. It all plays nicely through the day, from casual pasta lunches with good coffee, to pizza over beers or a blow-out dinner warranting a dress up.
Edinburgh
THE FAT PONY BARS & PUBS
47–49 Bread Street, 0131 229 5770, thefatpony. com, £18 (dinner) A welcome addition to largely loveless Bread Street, The Fat Pony is a relaxed setting to explore an innovative selection of wines and cocktails. The modern décor is saved from austerity by colourful bar stools and little kitsch ponies, subtly mounted. Helpful service and reasonable prices (from £2.75 a glass) mean you can roam freely through the quirky wine list. Try an orange wine (closer to sherry) or a sweet one, sample biodynamic production or a grape you’ve never heard of, or sip a herb-infused Bloody Mary while grazing on decent charcuterie, some Mellis cheese or a tasty small plate.
TOAST LEITH BARS & PUBS
65 The Shore, Leith, 0131 467 6984, toastleith. co.uk, £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner) Whether you crave coffee and cake or wine and cheese, there’s no ‘right’ time to have either at Toast, Edinburgh’s first ‘all-day wine café’. Inside, large windows illuminate high ceilings, exposed brickwork and quirky wall tiles, with outdoor seating for sunny days. The rotating wine list showcases nearly 30 wines by the glass, mostly biodynamic, natural or organic, while the menu focuses on seasonal dishes with strong Middle Eastern influences – head chef Lizzie Arber has plans to add more plant-based food over time. Monmouth coffee and sweet offerings from The Pastry Section, Grams and Patisserie Madeleine are almost irresistible.
LEFT FIELD STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS 12 Barclay Terrace, 0131 229 1394, leftfieldedinburgh.co.uk, £12 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)
Left Field (formerly Katie’s Diner) is a welcoming and relaxed neighbourhood eatery in a stripped-back space. The menu features Scottish ingredients served simply, such as starters of Shetland mussels and chicken
liver pâté, and mains like beef burger, chicken or charred cauliflower. Scottish Border beef is prominent, matured for 28 days and served with proper chunky, crunchy chips. With good veggie options, short but interesting wine and beer lists and great value weekend set lunches, you’ll find little fuss or frill at Left Field. It’s confident, charming and uncomplicated, to the point of appearing effortless – the kind of place every neighbourhood deserves.
Independent write-ups on all the restaurants worth knowing about in Glasgow and Edinburgh are available on our online Eating & Drinking Guide at list.co.uk/food-and-drink
62 THE LIST 1 Nov 2017–31 Jan 2018