FOOD & DRINK RECENT OPENINGS
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THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT The latest offering from restaurateur Alan Tomkins breathes new life into a Maryhill pub, reveals Tiff Griffin
W ho doesn’t love a fairytale ending? There’s a little of the ugly duckling in the story of this enduring fixture on Maryhill Road, whose well-loved but unremarkable features have been transformed into a stylish bar that retains the feel of a neighbourhood pub. The snug front bar is welcoming enough but the main attraction is a result of the bar’s renovation – a show-stealing conservatory that’s spaciously laid out with mixed seating, accompanied by the cosy scent of a wood-burning stove, inviting visitors to lounge on the comfy sofas that surround it. A smart range of modestly priced cocktails includes an unusual – but uniquely Brazilian – passionfruit caipirinha, while Schiehallion on draft is a sound option from the canon of Scottish craft beers. The menu is good-quality bar food, from nibbles such as prawn tempura to a voluptuous Strathy burger. Well-informed staff tip the Goan curry with good reason – it’s rich and full of warming chilli-infused tingles – and there are also attractively priced £5 lunch deals. Stylish glass panels allow a view across the treetops and spires of Glasgow’s West End, offering an abundance of natural light that’s welcome on both those short winter days and relaxed sunny afternoons. A pub for all seasons.
THE STRATHMORE
795 Maryhill Road, West End, Glasgow, G20 7TL
0141 946 3131, strathmoreglasgow.co.uk Average price two-course meal: £12 (lunch/dinner)
The best of the new restaurant, café and bar openings in Glasgow and Edinburgh. Prices shown are for an average two-course meal for one.
Glasgow
BAVARIA BRAUHAUS BARS & PUBS
30 Bothwell Street, City Centre, 0141 457 7100, bavariabrauhaus.com, £18 (lunch/dinner) Only selected breweries, the ‘big six’, serve beer in the official halls at Munich’s Oktoberfest. Bavaria Brauhaus’ USP is that it has them all (including weissbier, and some ‘hells’ lager) on tap. This, along with a choice location in the financial district, sets the Brauhaus up well for after-work hordes and big weekend groups. Like all beer halls, it needs to be busy to bring its high, bright space to life, though there’s a merry soundtrack of oompah horns. Food is predictable – roast chicken, veal in breadcrumbs, sausage platters – and generally a little under- seasoned and a tad overpriced. But being able to choose any of those great beers is the biggest pull here.
Eusebi herself weaves around greeting customers like family friends. Everything is sourced meticulously, as one would expect from 40 years of importing from artisan Italian producers. This is the real deal – molto autentico – and the whole experience, from the welcome to the plates piled high with meats, olives, pastas, pizzas and salads, is delightful.
NOODLE CHINESE
98 Bath Street, City Centre, 0141 353 1889, £8.50 (lunch/dinner) This unassuming addition to Glasgow’s Chinese scene is marked out by the fact that their noodles are handmade to order. The open-plan space (more café than restaurant) leaves chefs in full view as they roll and shake out these pleasingly chewy, irregular and fresh delights. It makes a big difference. Nothing is fancy, but it feels genuine and tastes good: rich, clean broths, veg that’s full of flavour but still crisp, chicken dumplings served in the steam basket, while a cold counter offers simple accompaniments. Things crunch, contrast and sizzle when they’re meant to. No alcohol, or pork dishes, but there is a Chinese language menu with some intriguing options.
EUSEBI DELI ITALIAN
152 Park Road, West End, 0141 648 9999, eusebideli.com, £16 (lunch/dinner)
Edinburgh THE WALNUT
BISTROS & BRASSERIES
After an eight-year wait for Eusebi Deli to open its sister restaurant, it is little wonder that this West End outlet is often stuffed full. It has a charming retro Italian café vibe, helped by family snaps and cabinets displaying everything from seasonal salads to ready-made lasagnes and divine-looking dolci. Owner Giovanna
9 Croall Place, Leith Walk, Leith, 0131 281 1236, £14 (dinner) Dining along Leith Walk always has something tucked up its sleeve: witness December’s opening of this unassuming former café, which has been given a light, bright makeover with a huge blackboard dominating one wall. The frequently changing menu is simply divided into small plates, meat, veg and fish. Scottish produce does the tiniest fist bump with French rustic: mains beguile piled into chunky bowls, crowned with crispy veg swirls or velvety
braised octopus. It’s BYOB, prices are exceptionally reasonable and they make their own oatcakes: all in, one nut that’s definitely worth a crack.
THE PRINTING PRESS BAR & KITCHEN BISTROS & BRASSERIES
21–25 George Street, New Town, 0131 240 7177, printingpressedinburgh.co.uk, £18 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner) As statements go, this splashy refurb of the former Tempus into a 160-seat bar and restaurant is a bold one. Food’s available from breakfast through to bar nibbles till 1am, with the aim of putting eating front and centre of the George Street experience. The space is classy and sassy, with a menu offering a strong focus on game, as well as the familiar trinity of salmon/seafood/beef. Desserts are homemade, with a marmalade steamed pudding stealing the show. The Printing Press has ambition as bright and clear as its twinkling chandeliers.
THE RABBIT HOLE BISTROS & BRASSERIES
11 Roseneath Street, Southside, 0131 229 7953, £11 (lunch) / £20 dinner Arriving in the space previously occupied by Sweet Melindas, The Rabbit Hole offers a new layout and design but a very similar commitment to the ethos of neighbourhood dining. A new wooden bar offers a focal point and space for less formal perched dining, while a window banquette curves around a go-to table for those looking to dine with a bigger group. Food is earthy, practical and a little bit Italian: stuffed lamb saddle served on caponata, a grilled lobster or a lunchtime soup and sandwich. It’s easy-going, family friendly, regular friendly, and stay-a-bit-longer friendly.
Independent write-ups on all the restaurants worth knowing about in Glasgow and Edinburgh are available on our online Eating & Drinking Guide at list.co.uk/food-and-drink 44 THE LIST 4 Feb–7 Apr 2016