FOOD & DRINK RECENT OPENINGS
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IN LEITHIER SUBURBS Music and Leith-loving chef Joe Malik has opened his own place. David Pollock tries a menu of good food and local heroes
H aving built a very well-deserved reputation as head chef at Joseph Pearce, Lioness of Leith and the Safari Lounge, Joseph Malik has gone it alone in the former trattoria in the side room of Easter Road’s Persevere bar. Almost certainly the only chef in Scotland to have released music on the seminal Mo’ Wax label, Malik’s approach is idiosyncratic but perfectionist. A starter of tempura-battered mussel popcorn doesn’t lose the flavour of the main ingredient, while simple black pudding enjoys some great flavour combinations when served with homemade brandy apple jam, pickled vegetables and fresh berries. The distinctive ambience of the dining room (high, corniced Victorian ceiling and specially commissioned art work) is as singular as the ‘love letter to Leith’ menu which eulogises local heroes; expect dishes named in honour of Richard Demarco and former Port O’Leith landlady Mary Moriarty, a football- themed plate of pork ribs with cabbage and ‘Hibernian’ mash (caution is required with the hot sauce here) and a daily-changing cake from Albert Street’s Sicilian bakery. Wary diners (and even Hearts fans) needn’t fear gimmickry – this is food created with skill, love and local knowledge. Weekend brunches, roasts and bairns portions are also available.
THE PERCY
398 Easter Road, Leith, Edinburgh, 0131 554 0271 Ave. price two-course meal: £15 (dinner)
The best of the new restaurant, café and bar openings in Glasgow and Edinburgh. Prices shown are for an average two-course meal for one.
GLASGOW THE MARKET KITCHEN STEAK AND SEAFOOD BISTRO
69 West Nile Street, City Centre, 0141 332 9755, marketkitchenglasgow. com, £13.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner) There’s a warming casualness to this smart, two-floored bistro close to the redevelopments near the old Odeon cinema. The casualness, however, stops in the kitchen, where the Butchershop’s former head chef brings his expertise in steaks and seafood to an enticing menu. It’s not just skill with surf and turf that shines out, but a fastidious integrity with ingredients and attention to detail in every dish, whether the perfectly crispy skin on an enjoyable gin and herb salmon starter or an earthy beetroot salad enlivened with hits of Lanark blue cheese. Service is affable and eager – and the coffee exceptional.
THE MCMILLAN BAR & CHOPHOUSE 862 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, 0141 649 9055, themcmillan.co.uk, £10 (lunch) / £24 (dinner) Overlooking picturesque Queens Park is this second spot for Scott McMillan, who has been in Broomhill for 12 years, busily sourcing quality Scottish lamb and Aberdeen-Angus beef and perfecting great grills. It’s this winning formula he has brought south and the results are impressive. Ten different seared and
tender steaks and a range of burgers and chops are a mainstay; elsewhere the starters, including expertly grilled scallops, are well thought out, though the puds lack a little imagination. The welcoming feel of the place, with its wood-burning stove and upbeat staff, make it feel a relaxed and sophisticated hangout.
COFFEE AND CRAIC COMMUNITY CAFE 74 Elderslie Street, West End, 0141 237 6970, fb.com/coffeeandcraic, £8 (lunch) Being a community-minded hub isn’t the only thing going for this part-crowdfunded enterprise – it is also Glasgow’s first Gaelic café. Set up by Sarah Bollard, whose sons attend the nearby Gaelic School, and who realised there was a thriving community of Gaels in the vicinity, the café offers all manner of regular classes, workshops and events. Local suppliers and businesses are at the forefront of the operation, from Tapa bread and Dear Green coffee going in to the enticing refreshments, featuring soup, sandwiches and some enjoyable bakes and cakes.
EDINBURGH THE OX DINING PUB
salty and slightly spicy joy. Other mains such as lamb rump, kale, and a silky sweet potato puree demonstrate a talent for honest, flavoursome cooking.
GOYA 23 SPANISH DELI/CAFÉ 30 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge, 0131 220 0984, goya23.co.uk, £9.50 (lunch/dinner)
The most eye-catching aspect of this attractive deli is the long line of jamón ibérico joints – black Iberian pig fed on acorns and olives – hanging by the hoof behind the counter. Sandwiches are simple
but stylish affairs: crispy, chewy artisan breads rubbed with fresh tomato, drizzled with oil and layered with jamón ibérico in the form of ham, loin, chorizo or salchichón. Elsewhere there are soups and salads, including bonito (white tuna) with piquillo peppers or sardines with avocado. A drinks licence and a new evening snack menu are set to follow too. PÂTISSERIE MAXIME FRENCH CAFÉ-PATISSERIE
49-51 London Street, New Town, 0131 556 9808, theoxedinburgh.com, £10 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) After a brief sojourn as the Bellevue, this pub at the bottom of Broughton Street has been reinvented by its new owners, the former head chef and general manager of Leith favourite The Shore. The aim is to create a cheerful, welcoming local and they’re on the right course with good value grub, some decent bottled beers and an appealing wine list. There are recognisable pub staples in the form of burger, steak and fish and chips, but also a darn good haddock tempura with curried parsnip and pickled carrot, while courgettes, chilli and cheese on toast is a slippery, 6 Queensferry Street, West End, 0131 225 6066, patisseriemaxime.co.uk, £10 (lunch/dinner) Behind the bus-stop overspill outside this former music store is a window crammed with attractive goodies. From zingy tarte au citron to choux ring Paris-Brest (with hazelnut cream filling), they taste rather splendid too. The pedigree is certainly sound, with the president of the Association of Alsatian Pastry Chefs, Didier Meyer, involved in the new venture. There’s savoury fare too, including filled baguettes and croissants, quiches and croque monsieurs, and a handful of more interesting regional specialties such as the pâté lorrain – a glammed-up bridie filled with a mixture of coarsely chopped pork and veal.
Independent write-ups on all the restaurants worth knowing about in Glasgow and Edinburgh are available on our online Eating & Drinking Guide at food.list.co.uk 52 THE LIST 11 Dec 2014–5 Feb 2015