FOOD & DRINK NEWS & REVIEWS
RESTORATIVE POWERS Glasgow’s successful Games and their all-encompassing legacy can give the impression of a city bulldozing into the future, but Jay Thundercliffe finds lots to admire in an A-lister’s careful restoration into a quality dining venue
A nyone wandering in the Merchant City will invariably have their eye drawn to the imposing and elegant Hutchesons’ Hall. Built as a hospital in the early 19th century (relocating from the Trongate, from where it had operated since the 1640s), the exterior was renovated back in 2010 but its interior has languished from public sight for several years.
Impeccably revived and restored by a partnership between owners the National Trust for Scotland and James Rusk of the Butchershop Bar & Grill, the double-floored café-bar (serving breakfasts and light lunches) and brasserie is a delightful, must-see venue, even without any dining aspect. In a city that has a recent relish for clearing away the old for the shiny and new, it’s heartening to see Glasgow’s history so meticulously and mindfully resuscitated.
An early proponent of Glasgow’s meat refocus, Rusk delivers Scottish surf and turf, sourced carefully, cooked thoughtfully, with a keen eye for the importance of the full dining package. Minute elements throughout are clearly laboured over, from the aperitif cocktails – a classy collection well served in the ground-floor bar – to the majestic hall upstairs
HUTCHESONS
where lavish decorative features, original stained glass and palm fronds create one of the city’s most arresting dining spaces. A starter salad of endive and pear may seem lowly compared to the high-enders such as platters of oysters, crevettes and lobster, but it comes with one of Scotland’s finest cheeses, Ailsa Craig goat’s cheese. Steak tartare is a highlight, as big as a burger pattie, bustling with herby notes. Alongside beef from top-quality local suppliers, a chargrilled monkfish main lets the seafood shine, simply served with lemon caper butter, good skin- on fries and rocket salad, although quality Shetland salmon struggles somewhat against deeply rich bean and chorizo broth. Desserts are accompanied by excellent ices – a cinnamon ice-cream lights up a thin and delicate apple tart, while blancmange and orange jelly features a zinging grapefruit sorbet.
+ Sumptuous setting for quality Scottish surf and turf - Pricey – but the majestic surrounds justify the dent
158 Ingram Street, Merchant City, Glasgow, G1 1EJ, 0141 552 4050, hutchesonsglasgow.com
Food served: Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 10am–10pm Ave. price of a two-course meal: £15.95 (set lunch) / £34 (dinner)
34 THE LIST 21 Aug–18 Sep 2014
SIDE DISHES News to nibble on
From 2008- 2011, Annette Sprague ran a great wee Californian restaurant on St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, called Redwood. She’s back with a new bistro planned for an October opening beside Drumbrae Roundabout. Check redwoodbistro.co.uk for info on pop-up preview meals.
A bunch of summer openings around Edinburgh’s Southside to highlight: the folk behind Mum’s have opened all-American diner Frontier at 8 Gillespie Place, Saiko Kitchen brings pan-Asian street food to Roseneath Street, Salt Café is introducing good local food to the top of Morningside Road, while Charlotte and Mike Billinghurst (ex Valvona & Crolla / WoodWinters) have set up the classy 181 Delicatessen on Bruntsfield Place.
RECOMMENDS . . .
LA FAVORITA LA FAVORITA DELIVERED
Famous for their unique handmade dough and delicious combinations of only the fi nest fresh
ingredients, La Favorita offer an authentic Italian dining experience, delivered.
lafavoritadelivered.com