FOOD & DRINK NEWS & REVIEWS
DRIVING FORCE One of Glasgow’s pop-up pioneers is settling down to impress at a permanent venue in foodcentric Finnieston. Jay Thundercliffe swings by to sample the staying power
J onathan MacDonald’s career trajectory of late is one of gradually applying the brakes. As former head chef for the McLaren F1 team, he was immersed in the most high-octane, jetsetting, supercharged mobile catering gig in existence, visiting a different country, even continent, each week. Then his Scoop events caterers were behind the Street Food Cartel and Glasgow’s vibrant pop- up eating scene – a smaller geographical patch, but still essentially whizzing about on wheels with their shiny bullet caravan.
Now, with Ox and Finch, he enters the restaurant business proper with bricks and mortar and foundations, setting up in an attractive tenement corner close to Kelvingrove Park and a block from Finnieston’s food-focused epicentre.
Ox and Finch puts on a fashionable front, with stripped-back fixtures and open workings (including the kitchen). Yet the interior is crafted more for patrons’ benefit than those gawping from the street: both the orientation of banquettes and the partitioned- off booths focus diners’ attention squarely on their food.
MacDonald’s globe-hopping past has dictated the menu less than one might expect, with a firmly Mediterranean and UK flavour to offerings, complementing the classic British establishment vibe
OX AND FINCH
and traditional-sounding name. Yet Scottish produce is well utilised – never better than Clyde Valley’s tomatoes in a simple, sun-drenched mozzarella and tomato salad. Small plates prevail on the menu, lending to care- free dining as they arrive in staccato order carrying tastes of bold, creative work in the kitchen. There is a focus on solid flavour combinations and plenty of substance – from triumphant curled-up house sausage packed with spice and herbs, and melting, rib-sticking ox cheek, to perfectly crisp sea bass and a delicious wedge of chicken confit.
Very occasionally something asks for a little company: savoury ham hock and cheese croquettes needing a dip to sharpen or soften; or to be left alone a bit: subtle, sweet spring vegetables in pasta struggle against the herby clamour. But most dishes are temptingly devised, pretty on the eye f and delightful to taste, right up to the last spoon of airy cherry clafoutis. On this evidence, MacDonald certainly isn’t at a standstill, but nor will he be packing up and speeding off any time soon.
+ Self-confident rather than self-aggrandising - Service under a bit of pressure at rush hour
920 Sauchiehall Street, West End, Glasgow, G3 7TF, 0141 339 8627, oxandfinch.com
Food served: Mon–Sun noon–10pm Ave. price of a two-course meal: £20 (four plates)
34 THE LIST 12 Jun–10 Jul 2014
SIDE DISHES News to nibble on
Drygate, the craft brewery, bar and kitchen set up by Williams Brothers and the Vintage beside the Wellpark Brewery in the East End of Glasgow, is now officially up and running, while newcomer Alston Bar & Beer, specialising in steak and gin, can be found in the catacombs of Central Station – right beneath its sister venue Gordon Street Coffee (see Recent Openings, page 36). Edinburgh Gin, the small-batch gin made with Scottish botanicals, heather and milk thistle by Inverkeithing’s Spencerfield Spirit, is settling into a new home in the West End of the capital, with a bespoke distillery, visitor centre and bar called Heads and Tales opening at 1a Rutland Place in mid June.
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