20 YEARS OF THE EATING & DRINKING GUIDE GRUB’S UP!
This year The List’s Eating & Drinking Guide celebrates its twentieth birthday. It’s Editor, Donald Reid, looks back at the very fi rst issue to see what’s changed
I n 1994 it was simply called the Eating Out Guide. It ran to 36 pages, was printed in black-and-white and covered around 400 venues. It was an era when Edinburgh had more Swiss restaurants (2) than Japanese (1), and there was even an Icelandic restaurant in Glasgow.
Nineteen years on and our eating out guide is about to publish its twentieth annual edition. These days the Eating & Drinking Guide is 196 pages long and includes over 900
but venues (including 10 Japanese restaurants but d’s nothing showcasing Switzerland or Iceland’s gastronomic riches). gow Over 100 new openings and arrivals in Glasgow ded and Edinburgh’s dining scene will be included l of in the 2013 edition, but there are a handful of m the stalwarts that have been around with us from the very start. Here are a few of them.
W O G S A L G
H G R U B N D E I
UBIQUITOUS CHIP What we said in 1994:
THE 13TH NOTE What we said in 1994:
BABY GRAND What we said in 1994:
‘Tourists join the loyal BBC and archetypal West End crowd who all appreciate the fresh produce and West Highland seafood. Game, poultry and meat are staples of the menu, depending on what’s in season, with two courses from £8.’
What we said in 2013: ‘The Chip still holds its own amid the crowded glare and shifting fashions of Ashton Lane, carving a hard-won niche for quality food and metropolitan chic. Changes here are always subtle and intelligent but it’s easy to spot a raising of the bar regarding the panache of the dishes.’
‘A rock’n’roll hangout of the local stars that doubles as a pub but merits a listing in the vegetarian section for its services to healthy eating. The regular dishes include lasagne, chilli and vegeburger.’ What we said in 2013:
‘Slap bang next to Charing Cross station, this is a haven in the style of a Viennese bar, eons removed from the city surroundings. Frequented by the ‘arty’ set and theatre-goers who add to the clubby, friendly atmosphere’
‘A diverse range of flavours are on offer from snacky standards like chips, olives and onion rings to a light and citrusy haloumi and aubergine kebab, served with salad and flatbread. There are quite a few versions of curry, from Thai green with risotto cakes to a well- balanced Indian thali platter where tasty coconut and fenugreek dhal is accompanied by mint raita, Bombay potatoes, and cumin-flecked basmati rice.’
What we said in 2013: ‘Tucked away behind the King’s Theatre, this brasserie has a long, thin bar with an open kitchen, a blackboard showing specials, quirky artworks and candles flickering on black tables. It is the kind of city café/bar you might find in Amsterdam. Although not as fashionable as it once was, it still retains its charm.’
THE GRAIN STORE What we said in 1994:
‘Fresh Scottish produce from French trained chefs, all cooked to order. The vaulted premises are intimate and informal . . . Everything is home-made and all diets and requirementws are catered for.’
What we said in 2013: ‘The Grain Store does not harbour pretensions of troubling the Michelin inspectors, but that doesn’t mean lead chef Carlo Coxon cannot have a bit of fun . . . Yes the mains – halibut, partridge and venison – are as traditional as the candlelit stone- walled dining rooms, but they are spiced up with chorizo, walnuts and pickled cucumber.’
SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART CAFÉ (NOW CAFÉ MODERN ONE)
What we said in 1994: ‘People have been known to by-pass the paintings and head straight for the café. . . Renowned for its idiosyncratic tea pots, the café also produces exotic soups, stuffed croissants, quiches and casseroles’
What we said in 2013: ‘The meat and veggie menu is petite, but well compiled from local seasonal produce. Soup and filled ciabatta sandwiches sit alongside a range of specials . . . Salads can include Puy lentil and brie, while a large samosa is cooled with a crème fraîche and lime dressing.’
KHUSHI’S What we said in 1994:
‘An all-in-one meal, the thali, costs £5.45 whilst samosa and kofta mince balls can be had for around £4. Bring your own wine or nip into the pub next door and fetch back a jug of beer. An informal atmosphere brings in everyone from builders to QCs.’
What we said in 2013: ‘The latest incarnation of Edinburgh stalwart Khushi’s is far from your run-of-the-mill Indian restaurant. The menu has a modern feel to it and a little adventurousness is rewarded . . . there’s a range of freshly squeezed fruit juices, smoothies and lassis, plus the option of BYOB’.
The 20th edition of the Eating & Drinking Guide is available with the next edition of The List, published 17 April. Pre-order your copy at shop.list.co.uk
28 THE LIST 21 Mar–18 Apr 2013