FOOD & DRINK
NEWS & REVIEWS
THE UBIQUITOUS TRIP The globally inspired wanderings of Stravaigin 2 have honed in on the cuisine of one country. Malcolm Jack gets a taste of Glasgow’s fi rst Vietnamese restaurant
V ietnamese cuisine has been slow to pedal its way to Scotland, but its fresh and aromatic delights are finally arriving. Pho Vietnam House is an Edinburgh hidden gem, while the Hanoi Bike Shop that opened this autumn in the pretty two- storey building on Ruthven Lane that hitherto housed Stravaigin 2 is Glasgow’s first restaurant dedicated to the Land of the Ascending Dragon.
Inspired by trips to Vietnam, proprietors Colin Clydesdale and Carol Wright have shrewdly re-tooled a premisis which always played second fiddle to the original Stravaigin and The Ubiquitous Chip. They’ve gone for a Vietnamese canteen dining experience that’s unique, authentic and youthfully contemporary, part of a dining trend sweeping Europe. There’s all the dedication to local/ethical sourcing and freshness you’d expect – they even make their own tofu but applied now to the chillies and herb-heavy dishes that renders Vietnamese food among the world’s healthiest. The colourful décor with retro bicycles outside, bike wheels and assorted tools adorning brightly painted walls inside gives the place a student-y aesthetic, reinforced by young, fashionably attired waiting staff. Small tables are crammed in tight, with benches and stools as seating. You’re offered a basic crash course in how to order, the key instruction being that there’s no division between mains and
THE HANOI BIKE SHOP
starters: a couple of cold street food options will get you going, and hot dishes arrive when ready. Nem cuon tom trung summer rolls are a must-try, the translucent rice paper parcels packing in prawn, omelette, mint, coriander and noodles, served with a sweet chilli dip for dunking. Pho (pronounced fuh), is a Vietnamese staple: a thin and simple but very flavoursome noodle broth in chicken, beef/ pork, seafood and tofu varieties, consumed with both chopsticks and ceramic spoon. ‘From the pot’ specials can include tender pheasant leg ginger curry with mustard greens. Imported beers – the hoppy Hue pilsner is especially good for dousing heat – and strong, sweet coffee served in individually filtered cups complete a 360-degree Vietnamese-style meal. The flavours aren’t always as sharp as you’d hope (it’s necessary to pile on the chillies to give some dishes a kick) and while it’s not an expensive venue, the per-plate prices are a bit more Hyndland than Hanoi given the casual, street-food vibe and slender portions. But this is otherwise a very welcome and worthy addition to Glasgow and Scotland’s world food scene.
+ Friendly and well-trained waiting staff - Uncomfortable stools
8 Ruthven Lane, West End, Glasgow G12 9BG, 0141 334 7165, thehanoibikeshop.co.uk
Food served Mon–Wed noon–11pm; Thu/Fri noon–12.30am; Sun 11am–11pm Ave. price two-course meal for one: £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)
62 THE LIST 13 Dec 2012–24 Jan 2013
SIDE DISHES News to nibble on
The Pantry Farm Shop & Kitchen has opened its doors at 1 Northwest Circus Place
in Stockbridge, with shelves, fridges and a menu full of good local stuff, while over in Broughton Street, L’epicerie below L’escargot Bleu is open for one last hurrah this December selling choice French deli items. It’ll become a bar in the new year. The new year should also herald a brand new Black Bo’s on Blackfriars Street in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Under a team with recent links to First Coast, both bar and restaurant are being refurbished and food will be available in both, although it won’t be veggie-only.
New openings in Glasgow to look out for include Smoak doing their slow- cooked, home-smoked BBQ sandwiches at the Variety Bar on Sauchiehall Street, and Rock Lobster, serving seafood, grills and classy Italian dishes in the Virginia Court complex in the Merchant City.
DEUCHARS RECOMMENDS
ROSELEAF 23/24 Sandport Place, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6EW Famous for its pot tails – cocktails served in teapots – The Roseleaf Bar and Café located at The Shore, Edinburgh is perfect for brunch, lunch, dinner or simply, great drinks with great friends. With a menu of wholesome, hearty food, served from 10am to 10pm. The friendly staff will make you feel at home as you enjoy your pint of Deuchars IPA in relaxing and welcoming surroundings.