Food&Drink News&Reviews
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Stockbridge Market All year – Sundays 10am to 5pm + June – September Thursdays 2pm to 7.30pm
Quality food and gifts
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St Mary’s Market All year – Saturdays 10am – 3pm August: Saturdays 11am – 7pm Local weekly food and crafts market
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Four ethical events at the West End
Quality produce from local farmers
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Continental Market Conti Wednesday 22nd to Wednesday 29th August Wednesday Tuesday 2nd to Wednesday 10th October Tuesday 2n Tuesday 18th to Monday 24th December Tuesday 18 Open from 9am to 6pm Open from
Hand Up Media (seasonal) Mar/Apr, Aug and Dec
Indoor craft & gift market at Cafe Camino with Square Square luxury crafts and gifts
Market Tree Monthly – 2nd Saturday of the month
Edinburgh Farmers’ Market All year – Saturdays
Princess Princess Street Street edinburghfarmersmarket.co.uk Gardens Gardens facebook.com/EdinburghFarmersMarket edfarmersmarket showing the various food and craft markets which now take place in and a around Edinburgh city centre h has been published. Get the pdf fr from the websites of different m market operators including e edinburghmarkets.co.uk
SMALL LOCAL SHOPS are under threat, right? Let’s greet and eat at a couple of
great new openings in Edinburgh: native French baker Katia Lebart’s Wee Boulangerie at 67 Clerk Street and Nicole Roberts, aka The Marshmallow Lady, who has opened a shop and café at 14 Rodney Street near Canonmills.
GLASGOW’S GIG-GOERS
and beer-lovers are feeling the loss of the Captain’s and Bruadar. The Captain’s is due to reopen at an undisclosed ‘bigger and better’ venue in the city centre (Sauchiehall Street is rumoured), while Bruadar’s early promise and dedication to craft beers couldn’t beat the curse of the bottom of Byres Road.
DEUCHARS RECOMMENDS
THE GUILDFORD ARMS 1 West Register Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2AA The Fringe’s best free pub music event ‘Caledonian Folk & Blues At The Guildford Arms’, sponsored by Caledonian Brewery and anchored by Scotland’s favourite folk‘n’fun band Yard Of Ale. This award- winning bar and gallery restaurant, just off the east end of Princes St is famous for real ale, friendly service and its splendid Victorian fittings. An evenings entertainment topped off with a great Pint of Deuchars.
The Gardener’s Cottage. Inset: Earthy Canonmills.
Digging for victory Jo Laidlaw finds two Edinburgh newcomers are setting the pace for gold medal sourcing
B oth Earthy Canonmills and The Gardener’s Cottage share a resolute focus on finding the best seasonal and local ingredients and then treating them as lightly as possible, along the way blazing a path for produce-led, accessible cooking. Is this the start of a golden age for Scottish cooking? The evidence is compelling.
The picture-perfect Gardener’s Cottage was always going to feel special, but it’s the daily-changing fixed menu – five courses for £25 – that’s really creating a buzz. Their approach is simple. Grow it themselves (fittingly, the Gardener’s garden is flourishing); make it themselves (bread, chutney, even their own cheese); or source it locally and smartly (buy a whole deer and use every single cut for a week’s worth of menus). This thrifty approach delivers a witty, energetic menu that’s big on flavour, value and simplicity. There’s something truly beautiful about a slice of Lanark white cheese, a slick of rhubarb chutney, a warm brioche. Equally, poaching hake in the whey left over from making the ricotta is both bonkers and brilliant, a lactic quality seeping into every flake of the soft, yielding fish. Meanwhile, down in Canonmills, the latest member of the Earthy family is equally serious about its produce, with a predominantly organic menu, locally sourced (think Phantassie veg, Hugh Grierson meat, Creelers smoked fish). Here all those good things come together in a brasserie-style menu, running from breakfast (and who wouldn’t want to start their day
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with organic bacon, eggs and sausages?) to dinner, with a take-away lunch counter as well as a well- stocked shop. With raw ingredients this good, Earthy rightly keeps things simple. So a free-range, organic chicken breast is put together with punchy black pudding and a light cream sauce. A platter of salad screams ‘summer’ (while whispering ‘healthy’). It all adds up to easy, enjoyable food. Fair enough, two golds don’t make a golden age. But with sourcing and cooking of this standard emerging, maybe it’s the start of a movement, the beginning of a change. And maybe, just maybe, four years hence, they’ll all be fighting for a place on that podium.
EARTHY CANONMILLS
1–6 Canonmills Bridge, EH3 5LF, Edinburgh 0131 556 9696, earthy.co.uk
Mon–Sat 8am–5.30pm & 6.30–9.45pm; Sun 9am–5.30pm & 6.30–9.45pm (shop open Mon–Sat 8am–8am; Sun 9am–6pm).
THE GARDENER’S COTTAGE
Royal Terrace Gardens, EH7 5DX, Edinburgh
0131 558 1221, thegardenerscottage.co Thu–Mon noon–3pm & 5–10pm. Closed Tue/Wed.