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THE GREAT BEYOND As thousands head to T in the Park, The List selects a more tranquil collection of getaways, from unforgettable day trips and weekend city breaks to week-long island retreats Words: Anna Millar
A DAY TRIP There comes a fleeting, blissful moment, travelling south down the A1, when a fresh vista sweeps into view and the daily grind of city life fades away. The clear blue sea rushes against the cliffs below and a vast, open sky makes promise of the possibility to come – and all just a couple of hours from your front door. Leave Edinburgh or Glasgow in the morning and by lunchtime you could be sitting down to a sandwich of freshly caught crab followed by a beach walk at one of Northumberland’s many coastal pit-stops. The more active could, if they liked, devour the lot over a few days, courtesy of the North Sea Trail, a 64-mile walk between Cresswell in the south and Berwick- upon-Tweed in the north, but decent ground can be covered by simply cherry-picking some of the highlights. Journey half an hour beyond Berwick-upon- Tweed to the ‘jewel’ of the Northumberland coastline: the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. It is accessible only by causeway at low tide, twice daily, so be sure to check the crossing times before you head off, or end up stuck in a no-man’s land, being snapped by highly amused tourists and head-shaking, ‘can’t- they-read-the-signs’-lamenting locals. The List speaks from experience.
y why Film fanatics may recognise the island’s somewhat mystical castle from Roman Polanski’s 1960s psycho-thriller Cul-de-sac or, in more recent years, as the holiday backdrop for the angst-ridden thirtysomethings of Cold Feet – certainly, it’s easy to see the and. camera loves this island. oilt unspoilt Delightfully tion and with a population ple, of just over 150 people, a it attracts over half a ear million visitors each year he for its rich history (the ne ruins of the Benedictine ic, priory and the romantic, nd 16th-century castle) and at the serene beaches that surround it.
Bamburgh Castle
d, Back on the mainland, h head on 15 miles south to Bamburgh, where e the village’s castle e provides a Junoesque starting point for a
picnic-inspiring, sandcastle-building three- mile beach walk to the bustling coastal hub of Seahouses. On a summer’s weekend anticipate tourists a-plenty, all stopping in to enjoy the local fish and chips, friendly beer gardens and a truly impressive array of boat trips to one of the surrounding 28 Farne islands. As well as hosting one of the most famous sea bird sanctuaries in the British Isles, the islands will leave seal lovers suitably awed by the large colony of Atlantic seals on and around them. The summer home of four of the five species of British tern, the islands also boast puffins (locally referred to as ‘Tommy Noddy’), guillemots and kittiwakes; boat trips starting at just £8 per person come highly recommended. Round off your day trip at the Pinnacles Famous Fish Restaurant (Main Street, Seahouses), praised by the Hairy Bikers as the country’s finest fish and chips.
around five miles away at the Budle Bay Campsite (budlebaycampsite.co.uk), which boasts eco tents, bunkhouses and stands for campervans. A WEEK Aside from the fantastic ease in which you can train, bus or drive it north to get the Calmac ferry over to Mull, the island helps you drop down a gear, if not switch onto automatic pilot, with its single-track roads and laidback pace of living. Book in advance and your train and ferry tickets can be picked up for as little as £50, while accommodation on the island varies from campsites and small B&Bs to larger hotels depending on your budget.
Arguably, there’s no better time than summer to make a trip when the Mendelssohn on Mull Festival (1–7 Jul, mullfest.org.uk) is in full force. Tucked away in village halls, remote castles and tiny churches, the festival, inspired by the young Mendelssohn’s visit to Mull in 1829, has long offered a unique experience to performers who are more or less the same age as he was when he wrote his famous Hebrides Overture, a direct result of his visit to the area and, in particular, Fingal’s Cave on the rugged isle of Staffa. It is a classical festival refreshingly light on pomp and what is remarkable is how the locals embrace it and how many visitors come to the island simply to experience it, so prized is the opportunity to hear such beautiful music in such a remote, atmospheric setting. Those looking to add a little cultural gravitas to their trip should check out the Seahouses Festival (23–24 Jun, noon–6pm). While not Olympian in scale, it does the village proud, with a free two-day programme of music and family events. This year’s line-up includes My Darling Clementine, Rob Clements and Rob Heron & The Tea Pad Orchestra to name but a few. For a post-beach/festival/castle alfresco libation, look no farther than the Bamburgh Castle (bamburghcastlehotel.co.uk), which also has overnight deals starting as low as £44.50 per person for dinner, bed and breakfast during the low season. Alternative accommodation – should you fancy making g Based on the second largest of the Inner a night of it – can be found a night of it – can be found Hebr Hebridean islands, the festival creates a welco welcome diversion at the end of a day’s sight- seeing around Iona, Staffa or the white sands of Calgary Bay. Doing nothing to diminish the island’s tranquil setting, this is a festival that moulds itself perfectly to b become part of the landscape rather than i imposing itself on it.
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Those looking for a festival-free zone w will still find plenty to entertain, from woodland walks and cycle trails to w visitor centres, pottery farms and boat v trips. Not forgetting the local food and tr dr drink, which is a must for any visitor to the colourful waterfront of Tobermory, th whether locally produced wh chocolate and cheese or paying a visit ch to to the distillery. The Western Isles Hotel trying
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