Food&Drink News&Reviews
In the flesh Edinburgh’s latest steak restaurant comes roaring out the traps with images of raw meat, chic models and searing hot grills. Robin Wu went Steakside
‘W here beauty meats the beast’ is the strap-line for brash new arrival Steak, archly attached to publicity shots of ladies puckering their lips in readiness under dangling raw t- bones – although ‘where beauties eat the beast’ might be just as apt.
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the bone from three breeds, Scottish Aberdeen Angus, Black Isle and Limousin. A Black Isle rib-eye has rich flavour and toothsome while triple-cooked accompanying dripping chips are a super-deluxe interpretation of McDonald’s fries. texture
All dressed up and something to show The urge for a quiet, darkened room afterwards
Steak is one of a new wave of steakhouses, influenced by the likes of London’s much-lauded Hawksmoor, to debut on the Edinburgh scene. From the team responsible for 12 Picardy Place, it’s aiming for hi-octane glamour that would be more at home in the Meatpacking district in New York City than at the top of Leith Walk.
If that sounds like a complaint, it’s not. Edinburgh could do with a dose of said glamour and ambition and Steak may be the one to deliver it. This grand former nightclub has been cleverly divided by rope structures, which, along with butch banqueting tables, low lighting and a ton of candles, create much aesthetic drama. Pumping beats are turned up to eleven as are the flavours of the food. In fact, with all this style, you could be forgiven for wondering if there would be any substance. Fortunately there is and Jason Wright (previously of Ondine) has created a zeitgeisty menu where, alongside the beef, you can expect roast cockerel, truffled macaroni, langoustine cocktail and more.
Provenance and butchery of the beef are well considered: 35-day hung cuts are offered on and off
30 THE LIST 29 Mar–26 Apr 2012
Seasoning and char-grilling are at the aggressive end of the spectrum, perhaps at the cost of more natural flavours, but then subtlety is not what this joint is about. Butter shrimp Caesar salad is punchy and delicious, as is a starter of maple-cured salmon with drop scones. Food as theatre is definitely a theme and certain dishes, like crêpe suzette, are prepared tableside. With all its hullabaloo, one thing Steak does not do is make for a calm and relaxing evening but if you are after late-night bovine thrills with serious sourcing, then it certainly brings something unique and exciting to Edinburgh’s table.
STEAK
12 Picardy Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JT 0131 557 0952, steakedinburgh.com
Wed–Thu 5pm–midnight, Fri 5pm–2am, Sat
11am–2am, Sun 11am–6pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Ave. price two course meal: £25 (lunch / dinner)
SIDE DISHES NEWS TO NIBBLE ON
EARTHY FOODS & GOODS are about to open their third venue in Edinburgh, with Earthy 3 at Canonmills, offering a shop, café and bistro with evening opening. There’s also to be an expansion at the original Causewayside site, with the café tables there expanding into a series of fruit and veg filled polytunnels and raised beds. earthy.co.uk
THE OUTBREAK of posh chippies in Glasgow is getting serious. McCallums of Troon have just
opened the Wee Fry in Bearsden, while in the city centre the Merchant Chippie opened last month on the corner of High Street and Ingram, not far from 2011 opening Gandolfi Fish to Go.
WITH OUR ANNUAL
Eating & Drinking Guide due next issue (out 2 Apr) give
your favourite local dining spot a boost by voting online in The List Readers’ Awards – go to list.co.uk, search for your choice then follow the link on each restaurant’s review.
DEUCHARS RECOMMENDS THE PEAR TREE HOUSE 34 West Nicolson Street EH8 9DD, 0131 667 7533
To mark the start of the 30 Days of IPA festival, Caledonian Brewery will be unveiling their 'Mystery Beer' specially brewed for this event . If you love Deuchars, you will love this beer. No details released yet but you know its going to be something special. Look out for more great events throughout the 30 day festival across Edinburgh.