For more food and drink visit list.co.uk/food-and-drink Food&Drink News&Reviews
SIDE DISHES NEWS TO NIBBLE ON
THE NEW MAN in the kitchen at Hotel du Vin at One Devonshire Terrace in Glasgow is
Darin Campbell, back to the venue where he first worked under mentor Andrew Fairlie. Since then he’s had stints working for Fairlie at Gleneagles, at Petrus in London and The Fortingall Hotel in Perthshire.
STEFAN KING’S G1 GROUP has added significantly to its Edinburgh
portfolio, snapping up a number of hotels and bars run by Festival Inns, which went into administration earlier this year. The venues affected include Biddy Mulligans, the Bank Hotel and the Three Sisters on the Cowgate.
HAVING BEEN SHAKING their hula for nearly a year in Glasgow, tiki bars are on their way east with the opening of Lola Lo in the old Po Na Na nightclub on Frederick Street. Polynesian cocktails dominate the bill of fare, with different club nights lined up including Tikitaboo and Bounce. lolaloedinburgh.com
Stylish surroundings for top Italian food Booths for two can get a little tight
cuts from Simon Howie butchers, plus a successful translation of bangers and mash featuring succulent Italian sausages and a creamy celeriac mash – though the covering of Fontina cheese overdoes the richness somewhat. A rack of lamb, while no longer pink, is tender and tasty, complemented by broad beans enlivened by mint and garlic.
Desserts include tiramisù and gelato, as well as a rich and airy chocolate cheesecake with hazelnuts, and a well-executed strudel with pear and black grape. The impressive wine list has various barolos – from £30 to £100 – and other excellent Italian offerings. Prices overall aren’t a massive increase on a standard Di Maggio’s bill, yet the food is way ahead – add in attractive lunch and pre-theatre deals and Barolo proves itself a fine choice for Italian food in the city centre.
BAROLO GRILL
92–94 Mitchell Street, Glasgow, G3 8RS
0141 221 0971, barologrill.co.uk Food served: Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm;
Sun 12.30–10.30pm Ave. price two-course meal: £13.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)
BAR CRAWLER
NO. 12 PICARDY PLACE 12 Picardy Place, Edinburgh As Hawke and Hunter, this was one of Edinburgh’s A-list after- hours drinking spots. It’s now rebranded as No. 12 Picardy Place, and in truth not much else has changed. The presence of Restaurant Mark Greenaway has added oomph to the venue, and the sprawling outdoor sofas of the Secret Garden offer chill-out potential in all seasons. For August, add in a 200-seater Fringe venue and outdoor bbq snacks.
18–25 Aug 2011 THE LIST 93
Roll Out the Barolo Replacing a restaurant of nearly 50 years standing is a daunting task but Barolo Grill pulls it off with panache, as Jay Thundercliffe discovers
+ –
I t is an indication of the institution that L’Ariosto had become in Glasgow that even a month after being replaced by Barolo Grill the phone is answered with a cheery ‘Hello, L’Ariosto’. It’s also a reminder that the staff – some of whom have been around for decades – have been retained throughout the Di Maggio group’s takeover a few years ago and the recent transformation into a stylish Italian grillhouse.
Barolo is an attractive restaurant, smart and comfortable, with an unflashy elegance – full of warm browny red and cream tones, with patchwork mirrors, stonework walls, a huge photomural depicting the eponymous town and illuminated glass panels between the booths that comprise most of the seating. It’s a far cry from the mock piazza décor of its predecessor and will appeal to a wider audience, whether suits, shoppers, lovers or a celebrating family. The menu blends pasta and pizza choices with regional specialities and grills. To start, the Piedmont filo parcels, filled with crumbed Italian sausage and earthy porcini mushrooms, are a delicious opening, while an excellent carpaccio justifies its price with tender slices of seared beef fillet with a delicately marinated bean salad.
Pizzas are cooked in the newly installed ‘woodstone’ pizza oven, and there are various pastas and risottos on offer. The grill mains include beef