TRAVEL SCOTLAND
L–R: Lovestruck at Mhor; St Fillans; Isle of Ulva; Tobermory on Mull. WHERE TO STAY
Whether it’s a converted truck, a country home or a loch-side hotel, there are culinary feasts to be found
THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL St Fillans, Perthshire, PH6 2NF, 01764 685 333, thefoursesasons.co.uk Bed and breakfast rates from £61 per person. Four course dinner £38.
THE WESTERN ISLES HOTEL Tobermory, Isle of Mull, PA76 6PR, 01688 302012, westernisles.co.uk Bed and breakfast rate from £105 per room. Dinner from £22; bar meals from £7.
BARCALDINE HOUSE Barcaldine, Oban, Argyll, PA37 1SG, 01631 720219, barcaldine.co.uk Bed and breakfast rate from £90 per person. Six course dinner £49.95.
MONACHYLE MHOR Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, FK19 8PQ, 01877 384622, mhor.net Bed and breakfast rate from £186 per person in Mhor hotel; Lovestruck £300 for two nights, canopyandstars.co.uk. Five course dinner £49.95; afternoon scones and tea from £5.95 Also see sister operations: Mhor Bread, 8 Main Street, Callender, Perthshire, FK17 8BB, 01877 339518; The Library, Balquhidder village. Look out too for the re-opening of Mhor Fish, 75–77 Main Street, Callander, Perthshire, FK17 8DX, 01877 330 213, in the coming months.
FORTINGALL HOTEL Aberfeldy, PH14 2NQ, 01887 830367, fortingall.com B&B rates from £100 per person. 2 course dinner £29.95; 3 course dinner £37.95. Bar food from £6.
The picturesque spot is perhaps best known for its neighbouring Glen Lyon and the historic Yew tree – believed to be the oldest living creature in Europe at a whopping 5000 years old, it ensures a regular stream of visitors to the hotel. The ten en-suite rooms are designed with care – and the wee dram left as a welcome is a nice touch. Beyond the pretty surrounds and easy access to seven munros, this is a good spot for whisky lovers, situated as it is within easy reach of Dewar’s World of Whisky and Edradour distillery. While the chef is due to change in the coming months, all evidence indicates it will do little to sacrifice the quality on show here. Guests can eat in the bar or Yew restaurant space, the latter of which offers a very reasonable set menu. Plates come to the table beautifully attired, with local, seasonal produce very much the message of the day. A succulent pink perfect sirloin steak eventually beats us but only after we’ve washed down the lion’s share with a glass or two of delicious shiraz; before warm chocolate pudding and pistachio is presented to round off the meal. The following morning, a leisurely walk concludes that our foodie jaunt was just the tip of the iceberg. Roll on the next road trip.
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family affair. Open days are held throughout the year to encourage locals and visitors to get involved with the food; inside, the rooms are finished to an incredible standard, Tom’s eye for detail and design evident in each of the uniquely inspired spaces. Highlights of a typical evening menu include Kyle of Tongue Oyster, Isle of Mull scallop and the aforementioned de Winter fly-caught trout; Balquhidder mushrooms and garden beetroot add flourish to the dishes. The latest addition to their accommodation for those interested in the latest glamping craze, is Lovestruck at Mhor (see panel, page above right), an old
horse lorry charmingly converted into a romantic lochside hideaway. It’s kitted out should you fancy self-catering, with stunning views of Loch Voil from the raised double bed within. Whether you choose to stay the night or not, those not looking for dinner can simply pop in of an afternoon for some home- baked scones and sandwiches. THURSDAY AND SO TO FORTINGALL The final lap of our foodie-off finds us in Fortingall Hotel (see panel, page above), with a beautiful run along Loch Tay to get there.