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SIDE DISHES NEWS TO NIBBLE ON
THE SUDDEN death of Glasgow restaurateur Allan Mawn has shocked the
local dining world. The energetic and imaginative proprietor of Pinxto, Velvet Elvis and, most recently, Criterion, brought good food, cultured connections and originality to the West End social scene. Eddie Tobin, an old friend of Allan’s and himself a well- known figure in the world of licenced trade and entertainment, has taken over day-to-day running of all three venues. ‘The premises will continue with the same principles and ethos and before,’ he confirmed to us. ‘The directors will pursue the same route of cautious expansion that Allan followed.’
THE WORLD CUP of cooking, known as the Bocuse d’Or after the gold statuette of revered French chef Paul Bocuse that goes to the winner, was held in Lyon recently without a Scottish team in the finals (sound familiar?). But Scotland was on everyone’s lips as Scotch lamb and Scottish seafood were the principal ingredients selected by organisers for the final cook-off – a seriously prestigious badge of honour for champions of the quality of our local produce.
BAR CRAWLER
DRAM! 232–246 Woodlands Road, Glasgow Legendary Uisge Beatha has finally succumbed to a makeover – and new owners Maclay Inns have done a sympathetic job. Huge new windows illuminate a cosy and rustic interior. Beyond the food and a new name, much remains the same – about 80 whiskies, entertainment nights and, of course, the animal heads. (Jay Thundercliffe)
Pho your pleasure Vietnamese cuisine is hallowed by returning backpackers and adventurous tourists, but it’s poorly represented locally compared to other Far Eastern cuisines. David Pollock found a tiny outpost in western Edinburgh
I t wasn’t that long ago that Thai food was the bright new kid on the Far Eastern block. Now Edinburgh (in particular) and Glasgow have plenty of Thai eating spots, along with a slew of sushi bars, and it’s possible to find Indonesian, Malaysian, Korean and even Filipino restaurants in the Central Belt. Now the capital has its own Vietnamese restaurant. Not only that, but a very good one too.
However, you should book ahead if you want to try the place out. Operating out of a small shopfront just off Morrison Street, Pho Vietnam House is tiny, with just five tables crammed in to the limited space. That this isn’t a problem is largely down to owner Jodie Nguyen. Having learned to cook in her parents’ restaurant in Vietnam, she prepares the food (before handing over to a chef to cook it, as you’ll see if you have to walk through the spotless kitchen to reach the bathroom) and also acts as friendly and laid-
24 THE LIST 3–17 Feb 2011
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Quality and service that deserves to be a hit Once known, it will surely outgrow the space
back waitress and hostess. Recognising that the place isn’t best geared towards extensive production, and in order to keep prep time down, Nguyen has created a modest menu of meal- sized Vietnamese street foods. Despite this, and a focus on using fresh ingredients, there’s still plenty to choose from (for vegetarians too). The restaurant is named after Vietnam’s national dish (pho, pronounced ‘fuh’), which is a simple broth of noodles, spring onions and meat
or tofu, here served in a rich and well-seasoned stock. Attention-grabbing spring rolls are served fried or fresh (in other words, uncooked). Thick, perfectly wrapped cylinders of wonton-style pastry containing finely chopped shrimp and vermicelli noodles come with a chunky peanut sauce. Also recommended is the com ka kho, an earthenware pot of braised fish in ginger and capsicum, and thit theo kho, braised pork in a pepper and caramel sauce. Their Vietnamese coffee – a very strong filter cup made with condensed milk – offers an appealing finale. Like this charming restaurant, it’s small and sweet, and you’ll want to tell your friends all about it.
PHO VIETNAM HOUSE www.vietnamhousescotland.com
3 Grove Street, Fountainbridge, Edinburgh, 0131 228 3383 Food served Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm. Closed Sun
Ave. price two course meal £4.90 (set lunch)/ £13 (dinner)