Food&Drink News&Reviews
Star quality Balthassar was, supposedly, one of the three wise men. Andrea Pearson considers if a bistro with the same name can shine in Glasgow’s Merchant City
have
B etween them chef Jim Kerr and proprietor Alan Tomkins an impressive pedigree (Mar Hall, Nairns, Gamba, Urban Bar & Brasserie to name but a few) but could not make The Dining Room on Bath Street work for them. Now they have upped sticks a mile or so eastwards to the Merchant City and this time have opted for a French-style bistro, named Balthassar.
Having been many things, most recently Ad Lib, the former fire station on Ingram Street has been kitted out with full-on, fin-de- siècle bistro trims such as mahogany, marble, brass and pristine white linen cloths. Only the supersize red lampshades and contemporary fish etchings in the frosted glass give away the fact that the place has not already been here for decades. The menu reflects a certain self- confident French cool. Course suggestions are laid out a little randomly so it pays to give the
40 THE LIST 16 Dec 2010 – 6 Jan 2011
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Top quality ingredients without a hefty price tag Salt and protein overload isn’t so health-conscious
menu a long look through. Sandwiches, omelettes and Danish pastries rub shoulders with escargot and côte de boeuf. Veggie options are fairly limited with onion soup, goats’ cheese and red onion tart and risotto on offer. Even the omelettes are all offered with meat or fish. Having said that the onion soup gratinée with all its melty cheesiness would serve as a meal pretty much on its own. On the fish side, a hot and sour prawn soup made as one of the day’s specials is deliciously
fiery, if overly salty, and the Balthassar fishcake offers a subtle take on a staple with sweet potato pieces in the mix. The mains could all do with a generous side scoop of greens but the only side option that does not add more potato, cream or cheese is a salad of red onion and tomato (and that’s red anyway). But no need to get hung up on brassicas. The good news is that Balthassar focuses on thoughtfully prepared food served up at very fair prices. Jim Kerr has a longstanding relationship with his suppliers – the Aberfoyle Butcher, the Fish People in Shields Road and the Lymkilns cheesemonger – and the quality really shines through.
BALTHASSAR www.balthassar.co.uk
33 Ingram Street, Merchant City, Glasgow, 0141 552 5736
Food served Mon-Sun noon-10pm Ave. price two course meal £11 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)
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