Food&Drink News & reviews
Lapping it up A new Thai restaurant embraces the charms of its harbourside setting with the fruits of the sea. Courtney Peyton navigated her way there
F or nautical nourishment in Edinburgh you traditionally embark for Leith: it is the city port, after all. But even those bars and restaurants with any proximity to water really only have the Water of Leith on view, with its serene swans and the odd traffic cone floating by. For a proper dose of lonely sea and sky, the next closest option is Newhaven, where the scant collection of dining options has recently been joined by the Thai- themed Port of Siam. The main road may divide it from the working boats and lobster creels of Newhaven Harbour, but the slap of waves, the glimpse of boats on the firth and the open views to Fife all provide a suitably salty setting.
The premises aren’t big, but with the snell winter storms on their way the intimacy only raises the sense of sanctuary. The simple, modern interior is thoughtfully designed with a single room broken into discrete areas, most of which manage to capture the view to sea. Add to that the warmth and welcome common to many Thai
20 THE LIST 7–21 Oct 2010
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Wonderful seafood matched by the great sea view It’s small and a bit out of the way so you really have to book
restaurants and the charm of the place multiplies. Whereas every Thai restaurant in town features a range of seafood, Port of Siam’s menu is driven by it. The proximity to its suppliers, immediately over the road in the fishmarket, helps. The owners wavered over establishing a specialist seafood restaurant, but they’ve been bold in introducing a seasonally changing menu with many unusual and intriguing offerings.
As is now common across all
genres of restaurant, it encourages the ‘tapas’ approach to dining. Razor clams – gleaming, tender and fresh – work well in an unusual coconut and sweet basil soup (which you’ll treat like sauce). Fresh crab cakes, squid tempura and even a Thai take on oysters appear.
of
traditional Among main courses there’s a blend and contemporary options, with seafood dominating the latter and tradition confidently upheld by the larb moo – exquisitely spiced minced pork in crunchy lettuce leaves – and steaming, brimming bowls of red and green curries. With so much happening in so little space, the spirit of adventure is infectious – which is how it should be on the edge of the sea.
PORT OF SIAM www.portofsiam.com
3 Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh, 0131 467 8628 Food served Tue/Wed 6–10pm; Thu/Fri noon–2pm, 6pm–10pm;
Sat/Sun noon–10pm. Closed Mon.
Average price two-course meal for one £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)
SIDE DISHES SIDE DISHES News to nibble on NEWS TO NIBBLE ON
MZOUDA a new DEMIJOHN, the Moroccan and liquid deli with Spanish shops in both restaurant, has Glasgow and opened in Edinburgh, has Glasgow’s West a special End. Located at 141 Elderslie product out for Hallowe’en. Street (just south of Made by hand in Cheshire, its Sauchiehall Street and next Redcurrant Gin has a rich, red, door to Mr Singh’s India), it will syrupy consistency that bears feature food prepared by owner an uncanny resemblance to Hamid Benhach. t will feature blood. Drink it on its own over food prepared by owner Hamid crushed ice or with a slice of Benhach. lime, it suggests.
MZOUDA a new LUPE PINTOS, Moroccan and another local Spanish food and drink restaurant, has shop, is opened in celebrating the Glasgow’s West launch of its End. Located at 141 Elderslie second cookbook by taking its Street (just south of customers for a drink. At Sauchiehall Street and next events at Mancini in Glasgow door to Mr Singh’s India), it will on 18 October and Bennet’s Bar feature food prepared by owner on 25 October, Dougie Bell and Hamid Benhach t will feature Rhoda Robertson will serve food prepared by owner Hamid tasters of dishes from the book. Benhach. Tickets cost £12 and include a copy of The Half Canned MZOUDA a new Moroccan and Cooks. More at www.lupe Spanish restaurant, has opened pintos.com in Glasgow’s West End.
Located at 141 A MERGER of Elderslie Street sorts has taken (just south of place in Sauchiehall Glasgow’s West Street and next End with the door to Mr team from Blas, Singh’s India), it will feature formerly on Argyle Street by the food prepared by owner. t will Kelvin Hall, taking over An feature food prepared by owner Lochan at Broomhill. It has Hamid Benhach food prepared retained the name and by owner Hamid Benhach. ambience of An Lochan, while both elements combine their love of good food inspired by Scotland’s west coast.
BAR CRAWLER
GAMBETTA 157 North Street, Glasgow Among the concrete and aural assaults of Charing Cross, North Street is becoming a bar hotspot with Bon Accord, Chinaski’s, Black Sparrow and now Gambetta, a bar with a creative local arty-muso line. The main bar showcases local artists, while the free-to-hire venue downstairs hosts live acoustic bands, DJs, etc. Offers on the bar food are advertised on the tree outside.