GetStuffed FoodDrinkRestaurants
Cheeky chapel
And it came to pass that a branch of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant chain arrived in Glasgow and the word became flesh. Andrea Pearson took bread
Y ou may think Glasgow does not need another 250-covers-worth of Italian restaurant but there’s no doubt that the sainted Mr Oliver brings something a bit different. The place is brimming with creativity: the house wine is shipped in eco- friendly tetra paks; a superb selection of antipasti is served on a wooden plank; and kids are offered a Disney-style viewfinder as a menu. The proprietor’s God-like status infuses the place and its fired-up staff; less expected, but certainly welcome, are the strong messages about seasonality and local sourcing. OK, the scrummy figs adorning the chocolate tart are not from around these parts, and the olives, served on ice, have a few air miles behind them, but waiters evangelise so much about Scottish produce there’s clearly significant substance to go with the style. For all the imaginative flair, however, there are
90 THE LIST 5–12 Aug 2010
some weaknesses in the main dishes. The pounded steak is a little stringy, although prosciutto, fresh sage and a tomato salsa cover this adequately. The puttanesca is spicy with plenty of tomato, olive and caper showing through, but the ‘homemade’ pasta itself is disappointingly ordinary. Still, at these prices it is only a quibble. + Exciting combinations of flavours – Pasta
JAMIE’S ITALIAN
1 George Square, City Centre, Glasgow,
0141 404 2690, www.jamieoliver.com, Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10.30pm
Ave. price two-course meal £16 (lunch)/£20 (dinner)
> RECENT OPENINGS The best of the new restaurant, café and bar openings in Glasgow and Edinburgh from the last four weeks, reviewed in every issue
Glasgow
HILLHEAD BOOKCLUB 17 Vinicombe Street, West End, 0141 576 1700, www.hillheadbookclub.co.uk, £8 (lunch) / £14 (dinner) The surroundings of this latest enterprise to take on the former Salon cinema are spectacular, and a quirky sense of fun pervades the place. This doesn’t always work, particularly on the menu: describing something as ‘very good soup’ raises expectations unnecessarily. A typical main is a pork chop with tasty bhajee-like butter nut squash fritters, with desserts such as chocolate cake with amaretto cream to follow. Service is slow and a little erratic – all in all, quirkiness seems to trump quality.
Edinburgh
NARGILE 73 Hanover Street, New Town, 0131 225 5755, £13.50 (lunch) / £22 (dinner) Nargile’s recent closure, refurbishment and reopening has brought a shift in emphasis from the new management of Ruya Iridag, daughter of the Turkish couple who first established Nargile in Aberdeen in the 1980s, and her chef-partner Stuart Anderson. With both menu and interior they’re offering a contemporary take on traditional Turkish cooking. Generous meze, fish, vegetarian and kebab options all appear on the pricey but not over-expensive menu, with specials like kuzu kus kus (tender leg of lamb cooked in a thin soup of tomato and parsnip on cous cous) more appealing to the adventurous.
GOOD SEED 100-102 Dalry Road, Haymarket 0131 337 3803, www.goodseedbistro.com, £11 (lunch/dinner) This corner spot punches above its weight with a concise Mediterranean-leaning menu. Homely and generous-hearted, customers are as welcome to pop in for a slice of cake as a full meal and all dietary requirements are well catered for. Chickpea flatbread and egg poached in a cherry tomato sauce impresses with fresh flavours while meatballs are moist and savoury. Stellar desserts include a dense and fudgy chocolate cake and tart rhubarb cheesecake. Good Seed is good stuff, set to become a classic neighbourhood bistro.