ALTERNATIVE NEW YORK
5
MEATPACKING DISTRICT Industrial area transformed into cutting-edge place to be seen
Once a slaughterhouse area complete with carcass stench, MaPa had reinvented itself as the place to see and be seen. Almost a decade on, the transformation is complete, with a slew of cutting-edge designer stores and a rather civilised aerial park to boot. Nestled conveniently between the brownstone terraces of Greenwich Village and Chelsea, cutting-edge trend-setters have changed the fortunes of an area once best known for its industrial roots. In recent months, NY’s answer to Banksy, Mr Brainwash (perhaps best known for his graffiti print, mocking up Obama as Superman), set up residence in an old warehouse, while additional fashion forward names set up shop regularly, ready to rub shoulder (pads) with the likes of Stella McCartney, Matthew Williamson and Alexander McQueen. And it doesn’t just stop with fancy boutiques.
Those looking to splash their cash on a decent meal need look no farther than chic French bistro Pastis, or the ever popular 5Ninth; for something of an Asian persuasion, opt for Spice Market, French culinary star Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s latest venture. Those preferring a decent bite or a reasonable tipple on the hop
should check out Bill’s Bar & Burger or the Ajna (formerly Buddha) Bar; slick bistro Bagatelle or the casually sophisticated Bar 675 and Standard Beer Garden. Although home to the ridiculously hyped, and oh-so-
private Soho House (a boutique hotel and private members club – think lots of celebrities, not much soul), The List much prefers the excellently quirky Jane Hotel, a fully restored ex-’hotel for sailors’ with cabin-like rooms. If you really want to spy on MaPa’s celeb-tastic residents
you can do it from the top of Hotel Gansevoort, where the heated rooftop pool and bar, complete with retractable roof, affords stunning views over the Manhattan rooftops, as well as Soho Towers across the street.
Another great view is afforded from the High Line, a 75-
year-old elevated railway recently preserved as a 1.5 mile long public park along the Hudson River. Alternatively, the new Ground Zero Museum Workshop provides enough for a sombre afternoon’s reflection examining photos and other remnants from the World Trade Center recovery effort.
High Line Soho House
Pastis 6 EAST VILLAGE
Diverse and creative vibe with a multitude of bars
Once considered part of the Lower East Side, the East Village has nowadays built up its own ample charms. Whereas it was once the stomping ground of hippies and beatniks, arguably its biggest pull today is its plethora of bars. Antarctica, The East End and No Idea Bar are great hangouts, while burlesque at Nurse Bettie (a little space paying big tribute to the 1950s Americana pin up legends), on a Thursday night can’t be beaten. For open mic nights, Boxcar Lounge is a good call, while Bondi Road is a great place to guzzle some seafood and watch the world go by. For New York
charm in spades check out Vazac’s Horseshoe Bar, with its punk stylings and laidback ambience, or the fabulously intimate and BYOB-friendly Velvet Cigar Lounge. For affordable fare, 7A or funky neo-diner Life Cafe (as featured in the musical Rent) captures the East Village feel to a T. Nearby, literary hangout KGB Bar seldom disappoints either.
Culture buffs have plenty to tick off the list downtown too from The New Museum of Contemporary Art to The Public Theater and the adjoining Joe’s Pub, where art,
Shakespeare, jazz and many more events abound. For something a little more relaxed, Tompkins Square Park is a great stop-off, so too the Russian-Turkish Bathhouse; hang around and enjoy some authentic Russian fare when you’re done. Shoppers shouldn’t miss artist-run store The Shape of Lies, full of local jewellery designers and artists. For any sort of bar crawl, or slow
meander around shopping stalls, head straight for the constantly bustling St Marks Place, followed up by a visit to the two great Japanese supermarkets nearby, JAS Mart and Sunrise Mart.
22 THE LIST 8–22 Jul 2010
I O N Y
ALEKSANDRA VREBALOV Composer, living in Harlem
There’s something amazing about Harlem; like New York, it’s changing all the time. I think, right now, there’s a real freedom to the creative works happening in the city, and that’s enjoyable both for those who come to visit the city and for those living and working in it. There’s a real rich heritage from those living here and those who have moved here, which means there’s always something new and inspiring happening, whether that’s in opera, dance, theatre or classical music. A nice new place is the café, at the Alice Tully Hall, in the Lincoln Centre: it’s a great place to people watch, and if you’re willing to queue you can get some amazing opportunities to see some world- renowned acts at a fraction of the price. ■ Aleksandra Vrebalov’s composition ...hold me, neighbor, in this storm..., will be played at this year’s EIF by the Kronos Quartet, Sat 21 Aug.
Nurse Bettie