ALTERNATIVE NEW YORK WILLIAMSBURG 2 Bustling centre of ultimate boho cool
While some of Manhattan’s finest bohemian hangouts have fallen foul to some inevitable poshing-up, across in Brooklyn, Williamsburg maintains its real-deal credentials. Sure, the young professionals have moved in, but its boho heart beats stronger than ever. A haven for various arts scenes, lower rents in the 80s paved the way for an influx of quirky creatives, with unlicensed performance spaces cropping up in abandoned industrial buildings around the Bedford Avenue subway line, before the more commercial venues moved in. Today, the buzz remains. Williamsburg clutches to New York’s heritage, whether with its soul and punk rock offerings or vintage fashions and round- the-world cuisine. No trip on the L train would be
complete without a jaunt to one of Williamsburg’s live music venues, with Pete’s Candy Store, Luna Lounge, The Music Hall of Williamsburg and Public Assembly standing out as some of the best. A List favourite, though, is the Kiss and Tell night, at Rose Live Music where organisers invite DJs to play music outside of the genres they are known for. Or The Trash Bar – formerly Club Luxx – best known for hosting the Scissor Sisters’ first shows – always has plenty to offer. Keep an eye out for special events at the once active but now abandoned pool at McLaren Park in Greenpoint too. The more culturally savvy should enjoy a wee jaunt to The Williamsburg Art & Historical Center (WAH
Center).
Music buyers should head to
Earwax Records or Academy Annex for new and second-hand CDs, LPs, and DVDs. For clothes, don’t miss APC Surplus Store; or for thrift heaven look no farther than Beacon’s Closet or Brooklyn Industries for newer togs. For homeware and jewellery try Catbird on Bedford; for vintage designers Fille de Joie is a fashionista’s paradise.
The Peter Luger Steakhouse and Bamonte’s are both great bets for old school dining and tasty servings. Tipplers can enjoy tastings every Friday at the Brooklyn Brewery, or late night drinks — and pizza — at the ever popular Alligator Lounge, open until 3.30am.
3 WEST VILLAGE
Best place to shop and play
Once known as the bohemian capital of New York, the lion’s share of the West Village’s artier residents have moved to Williamsburg, Bushwick and DUMBO ( Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), thanks to ever increasing rents. An association with greats such as Bob Dylan, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs doesn’t fade quickly though, and today the spirit of its 50s and 60s loft community heyday still haunts its more gentrified streets.
To take, or rather drink, that spirit in, head immediately to the White Horse Tavern, the famous literary hangout where Dylan Thomas ‘drank himself to death’. If you prefer your lunch solid rather than liquid go for an all-American nosh-up at Cowgirl with its lip-smackingly good fajitas and frozen margaritas, or for American basics, head straight for Home or the pricey but wonderful EQ.
For some Village twee, see The Point Knitting Cafe, where locals and tourists alike hang out and knit, cuppa in hand. Indeed, if civilised is your bag, Magnolia Bakery’s cupcakes should keep you out of trouble, so too the Brit love-in that is Tea & Sympathy which comes complete with Sunday roast and Yorkshire puds – just be prepared to queue for one of the ten tables it has to offer.
Shop-wise, things are just as quaint. Kyung Lee’s small boutique Albertine nurtures a vintage style, so too does the nearby Some Odd Rubies (miss their bag collection at your peril). For 60s retro gems, Flight 001 Inc has everything a self-respecting traveller would want, from robust vintage suitcases to cutely designed ear plugs.
For everything from T-shirts to fur coats,
Zachary’s Smile comes up trumps with its one-of-a-kind offerings. For minimalism, see the diminutive Annelore, boasting women’s wear designed by co-owner and former Malandrino designer Juliana Cho. For something properly special, though, check out celeb-boutique Olive and Bette’s, a must with its stylish fashions, including Adriano Goldschmied, James Perse,Trina Turk and more. Bookworms should head for the rather wonderful, small bookstore that is Three Lives & Co. Described as a ‘pocket of civility’ in the neighbourhood, you can check out intricate Brit wordsmith David Mitchell reading from his new book The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet there on 15 Jul.
Of an evening check out Le Poisson Rouge, sometime gallery space, sometime art cabaret and look out for their great (and normally free) drag nights and DJ sets, or for after-hours jamming, head for BYOB hotspot Smalls.
White Horse Tavern 20 THE LIST 8–22 Jul 2010
Magnolia Bakery