Certified sustainable fish
For more food and drink visit www.llst.co.uk/food
To buy fish ethically look out for the blue logo of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC),
awarded to more than 40 sustainable fisheries worldwide. Under chef Roy Brett, the Grill at Dakota Forthbridge has become the first Scottish restaurant eligible to highlight MSC- certified fish on its menu. More guidance at www.mscorg
South African hake One of the most easily available MSG—labelled seafood products. hake are deep-sea members of the cod family. Although they have a more subtle flavour than cod. they are considered one of the best fish in the whiting family because of their firm, sweet, white meat and medium flake. Certified hake will soon be available at the Anstruther Fish Bar, the second restaurant in Scotland to earn the MSC's approval.
Pacific cod
In 2006 this fishery became the first certified sustainable source of cod. Working in the Bering Sea and Aleutian Islands off the coast of Alaska. the fishermen use longlines to catch the fish, which are immediately frozen in the boats’ holds. ‘lf fish is frozen at sea, it's often fresher than fish sold as “fresh",' says Roy Brett. Cod works well in a curry, taking up the flavours but keeping its texture.
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Herring (North Sea) The North Sea herring fleet within the Scottish Pelagic Sustainability Group (SPSG) was. in 2008. the first large-scale fishery in the UK to comply with the MSC standards. North Sea herring has creamy coloured meat, a mild taste and a high oil content. It is mostly processed for smoking (into kippers). curing or canning. but fresh herring is excellent in its own right — coated in oatmeal and pan fried.
Mackerel (North Sea) Recently achieving MSC certification, the SPSG mackerel fishery caught 95,700 tonnes of the fish in 2007. Operating in the North Sea. the 21 boats use a mid-water trawl. so avoiding contact with habitats and structures on the sea bed. Mackerel is an oily fish, but valued for its robust flavours and texture. MSG-labelled Scottish mackerel is now available from Marks and Spencer.
FOODFOR
Stornoway nephrops (Langoustine) A creel-based fishery in Loch Torridon is currently certified by the MSC; the Stornoway fleet use otter trawling gear to catch langoustine in the Minch, with a lifting bag employed to reduce the impact on the seabed. The vast majority of the Stornoway catch is bought by Young's seafood, and ends up as scampi on the domestic UK market.
Mackerel (Cornish) These fish are caught on handlines, with 25-30 hooks, by a fleet of 150 boats with exclusive rights to fish between Start Point and Hartland Point off the south-west coast of England. One of the more widely found MSG-certified products (available in Tesco and Waitrose). it’s available in the fishing season between September and April. The fish are also smoked. cured and frozen.
Charles MacLean
Whlsky wrlter
Breakfast is a quart of strong coffee. drunk through the morning, which is when I do my best writing. Whisky tasting begins at midday — your nose IS much better before lunch than after. But. hey. when the samples are as good as the ones in front of me today — a 1972 Old Pulteney. a 25 year old Clynelish and a 30 year old blend — tasting is essential. Lunch is with friends in town. Favourites are Celadon on Causewayside (the best Thai food), the Dogs on Hanover Street (first rate comfort grub) and Petit Paris [now L'escargot Blanc] on Oueensferry Street (real French cooking). The slow hours of the afternoon are devoted to admin and research. and in the early evening I may chair a tasting panel to assess Single cask whisky samples. Supper is cooked by me. Mrs MacLean or by our middle boy (aged 15. the best cook in the family) usually With a glass of wine. Then bed at 9.30pm to read to youngest child.
I Charles MacLean has published ten books about Scotch whisky His most recent, Whiskypedia, will be published by Birlinn on 2 June (wwwbirlinncouk). As part of Homecoming, May 2009 has been declared ‘Whisky Month '.
News to nibble on
I JUST OVII a year on from the opening of the Dogs, David Ramsden has taken over adjacent street-level premises at 104 Hanover Street and plans to open a similarly styled venue serving Italian dishes. With typographical cussedness not seen since the days of (fitz)Henry, it is to be called (a)more dogs. Opening is planned for early June.
I ”PHI. 0' Just next to Crabshakk on Argyle Street in Glasgow is Andre's, a new bistro- cafe at number 1 1 16. The style is French Mediterranean, with dishes such as veggie lasagne and cod served on mashed potato with mustard sauce. Lunches can be had for a fiver. with a two-course dinner for E1 1. 0141 339 3895
I OPIHIHO at 60 Henderson Street, Leith, right next door to the Plumed Horse and Vintners Rooms, is Café Fish, 3 new enterprise by Edinburgh-born chef Richard Muir. The concept is for a lively, buzzy, all-day seafood café offering top- grade, fresh local seafood at accessible prices, with two courses available for £19. 0131 538 6131, www.cafeflsh.net
I M m nun "MAL takes place in Paisley Town Hall from 29 April until 2 May. with 170 real ales available along with a selection of ciders, perries and overseas ales. Featuring strongly are the two ‘home' breweries from Renfrew Kelburn and Houston. Entrance is £5. www.paisleybeeifestival.org.uk
I ll vou men out getting hold of a copy of The Larder, our much acclaimed new guide to Scotland's food and drink, copies are now in bookshops, newsagents and delis, as well as from www.list.co.uk/shop, priced £7.99.
30 Apr-14 May 2009 THE LIST 1 1