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What's cooking?
With the publication next issue of The List's annual Eating & Drinking Guide to Glasgow and Edinburgh, editor Donald Reid chews over some of this year's themes and trends in the local eating out scene
igltt now we‘re busy writing up the late
entries. dotting ‘i‘s and crossing ‘t's to
get this year's [faring & Drinking (iiiit/t' finished. A year ago we revealed over l()ll new entries and everyone took it as a sign of a buoyant scene. This year we have over 120. an average of five new places each month in both Iidinburgh and (ilasgow. Many of them are replacing existing venues. but there's still a net gain. There have been some notable. and quite sudden. closures in the last few months (in (ilasgow more than in Edinburgh). but still the arrivals keep on coming. livery new place. and the way existing establishments adapt to survive. contributes to the constant redefining of the local dining landscape.
Tea
l.ong predicted after coffee-colonisation. it's now time for tea. Tea rooms. salons and shops are popping tip in quiet neighbourhoods and town centres. The early versions were chilled- out hangouts. but the 2009 version is better branded and more likely to sell you a designer cupcake. A choice of five 'l‘wining‘s speciality teas in tagged teabags doesn't cut it any more. We're talking loose leaves. strainers and definitely no milk and two sugars.
And tapas
Not necessarily to be served with tea (though don’t discount it) are the many versions of small plates. The equation is that small plates mean more variety. more sharing. less formality and smaller prices — per dish. that is. not necessarily at the final bill. The Spanish thought tapas was their speciality. but other nationalities either just stole the phrase — thus ‘ltalian tapas'. ‘Scottish tapas’ etc — or realised they had a name for the same thing. be it dim sum or thali.
THERE'S A LOT OF CONCERN OUT THERE ABOUT THE TOUGH TIMES
Name game
If it’s not Pittenweem langoustines. Skye scallops. Borders bacon. Perthshire chicken. Shetland lamb or Stornoway black pudding. then ask for ID. Food comes from somewhere. and knowing that your chef knows its history is reassuring.
How now brown cow This year’s menu essentials are pork belly. sea bass. razor clams. skirt steak. meat and fish on
Cahziquo in Glasgow‘s and
'34
the bone. barley risotto. beetroot. crumbles and lots of wines by the glass.
Real deal
There's a lot of concern out there about the tough times. Restaurants look for turnover more than anything else and to achieve this there are deals galore. Don‘t look for lots of food for ill) or US. but instead. smaller tasters of better quality food that might cost double if you were doing a normal a la carte.
Hoodies
It‘s not just neighbourhood restaurants though they continue to be a welcome growing phenomenon — but restaurant neighbourhoods. How many places have opened on Argyle Street recently'.’ ()r around Broughton Street'.’ Time to start re-drawing the map.
NEW ARRIVALS IN TUNE WITH THE TIMES
Loopy Lorna's Teahouse
370-372 Morningside Road, Edinburgh,
0131 447 9217, www.loopylornas.com
Banana cake and fluffy scones washed down with specially blended teas are the order of the day here. ‘Long-Iife' or “mass-produced are dirty words at this Morningside tea shop, which prides itself on its team of home-bakers. keeping the place stocked up with cupcakes, biscuits and pastries.
10 THE LIST 16—30 Apr 2009
Thall
42 Albion Street, Glasgow, 0141 552 8332, www.thaliglasgowcom
Using the pick and mix approach beloved of the Spaniards. Indian ‘tapas' at this Merchant City spot are served in ‘katoris' (small bowls) on a large ‘thali' (platter). Mini portions have been on the go in India for years. with thali chains spreading to London, but this claims to be Scotland's first thali-only spot.
Tapa Barra y Restaurante
19 Shore Place, Edinburgh, 0131 476 6776, www.tapaedinburgh.co.uk
After shutting up shop and movrng to Australia. the man who set up Tapas Ole and Tapas Tree in the capital has deeded to come home again and do what he knows best — make d€llCIOUS Spanish things in small, shareable portions. Look out for Japanese and South American touches on the new menu too.