West coast customs
Silicon Valley and Hollywood might dominate great swathes of our cultural landscape, but Californian food and wine seems like a quirky novelty. Donald Reid went west
he first hurdle to clear is that this is an
American restaurant that doesn‘t serve
burgers. The best explanation of this is that it's not an American restaurant btit Californian. (‘alistoga has been around in Edinburgh since 2004 on St Leonards Street. and properly popular it has been too. This second branch arrived in the summer in the tucked-away venue off Rose Street that was once home to Martin‘s and the original Roti.
What‘s worth keeping in mind is that California is a great place for food. The climate. the soil. the Pacific. the wealth. the international influences. It‘s the home of the French Laundry. a regular contender for the unawardable title of best restaurant in the world. while Alice Waters' Cher. Panisse in Berkeley is regarded as an inspiration around the world for the Slow liood ideals of real cooking with seasonal. local ingredients. Then there's the wine.
If you haven‘t been paying attention. Californian wine has made a bit of progress since Paul Masson and his collectable carafes. Gordon Minnis. who runs the two ('alistoga restaurants in lidinburgh. is also proprietor of Sideways wine store. named in tribute to the pinot noir quafling film and a place imbued with the unconventional. upbeat attitude of the winemakers from places such as .‘s'apa Valley. Russian River and Sonoma.
In truth. it‘s wine that leads the way to the restaurant. There‘s a wine lounge to one side of the main dining space. which itself is dotted with tasteful wine posters. The liuropeans can get very snooty about wine and the creative. relaxed tone inspired by the West (‘oast viniculture is one of many things to like about this restaurant.
The food — particularly when read on the menu — seems imbued with the same sunshine. There's colour and bold flavours. with a constant interplay of sweet and savoury that has pumpkin appearing in a starter. mixed into a mash served
7.1g!“ V'flé
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THERE'S A CONSTANT INTERPLAY OF SWEET AND SAVOURY
with a tasty main course of lamb gigot cliop and providing a smoky. dry flavour to a creme brulee. liven vanilla doesn’t just flavour ice cream btit also a mash served with red mullet and a mango and ginger sauce.
Fun and lively for sure. but it‘s a style that can trip itself tip. Pumpkin. pepper and pine nut broth with blue cheese crostini sounds exciting btit none of the component parts were discernible in a woefully bland soup. Presentational issues also arise: excessive
CALISTOGA CENTRAL 70 Rose Street Lane North, Edinburgh
0131 225 1233. www.calistogacouk Two-course lunch and pre-theatre £11.50: average two-course dinner 220.
Food and wine from the Golden State lights up
a gloomy corner of Edinburgh.
swirling and twirling of sauces is about as topical now as house price inflation. and however much the (‘alifornians like the chilled otit approach it’s not the best way to offer starters and ptids. Turn the fridge tip a few degrees. You wouldn't serve the Ridge Montebello “)S at the wrong temperature.
REGIONAL REDOUBTS .
Dakhln
89 Candleriggs, Glasgow 0141 553 2585, www.dakhin.com
Not just another Glasgow curry house but a discreet Merchant City venue dedicated to the food and cooking of south India. With dosas as a mainstay. some lovely seafood dishes from Kerela and the rest of the south coast a selection of exquisite. rarely seen here Tamil dishes.
10 THE LIST iii—27 NOV 2008
La Garrlque
31 Jeffrey Street, Edinburgh, 0131 557 3032, www.lagarrigue.co.uk
Perhaps the most f3l)(l‘(Il£lllf3(?(l of all l(:(ll().'l£tl restaurants iii the (:aiiital. tl(}£tll l\/li(:l‘.(}l (‘iaullie's kitchen focusses iiiiititiely ()l‘. the l {tiltltl(‘(l()(‘ i‘etiioii of southwest l i‘aii<:e. So. expect ltlfiltt’j casseroles. fish soups and laveiitlei~iiiliised desserts lioiii France's ‘/l\/l(l (:uliiiary heart.
Blas
1397 Argyle Street, Glasgow 0141 357 4328, www.b|asrestaurant.com lélll()()ll‘i£lll\,pliitEUinlitltlllt>(1tit)l\litilllllltllhlll()(I£ll. seasonal food 'a glance at the iiieirii iioiiiiallv ii'ovitles tiioiiiitis for sexeie stisiiittoi‘ , so (:ietlit to lilas loi l\(ft?llilitl a reiatmrly steady eve oi: What they can source ill the \‘Vest llitihlaiitls aiiti Islands of Scotland.