What lies beneath
Beneath Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery is a smaller, simpler new sister restaurant. The underground experience chimed with Donald Reid
he problem of second spaces is a dogged one for restaurants. A successful venue is always keen to make more tables available. but knows that the atmosphere. or the logistics. just don’t work so well in a room that‘s tucked awkwardly through the back or down in a windowless basement. One response is to create a new but linked identity. accepting the limitations and trying to offer customers a clear choice rather than second best. This is the route adopted by Ryan James with the downstairs area of the Buttery. In the past this has been used as part of the main restaurant. but given the work that went into the sensitive refurbishment of the main. street level dining rooms. simply regarding the lower area as overspill for the Two Fat Ladies was of limited appeal. So. a month ago. the Shandon Belles was unveiled. it has a
separate entrance and a flight of steep stairs leads to a low— ceilinged. windowless room with space for around 30 diners. Smart ivory-painted woodwork contrasts with peach-coloured tablecloths. but there‘s also an ecclesiastical
8 THE LIST 21 Aug—11 Sep 2008
BELLES SHARES THE SAME PRINCIPLES OF COMFORTABLE CLASS FOUND IN THE LADIES' THREE OTHER VENUES
theme running. with old church chairs. patches of stained glass and polished brass fittings. Sparkling glassware and old-fashioned silver cutlery underline the fact that the Belles share the same principles of comfortable class found in the Ladies” three other venues.
The food also shares an assured quality. though here it‘s cheaper and meatier. with the same shortish menu serving for both lunch and dinner. Among starters there‘s chicken livers. smoked salmon and a tart using light but taste-free wonton—style pastry holding soft. savoury pieces of red pepper in a balsamic dressing with cubes of grilled goats cheese.
Mains offer seafood linguine. a fillet of sea bass or a pork chop the size of your palm. with a decent crust of fat and cubed. caramelised apples and onion on top.
THE SHANDON BELLES
652 Argyle Street, Glasgow 01412218188. wwwtwofatladiesrestaurantcom Open Mon—Sun noon—3pm. 5.30-10.30pm. Average price of a
two-course meal £12.50.
surrounded by a particularly good red wine jus. It‘s simple. straightforward good food. freshly and confidently cooked. Mains are without potato or veg. which the waiting staff might have done better to mention sooner than the point when the dish arrives. Sides are priced at £1.95. which shouldn’t be intimidating for either customer or waitress. lfncomplicated desserts include an apricot and nut pavlova and a ‘Shandon’ chocolate pot. a thick. chilled milk chocolate mouse - asking for a bit more of its advertised ginger to pep it up.
A final word about the name. Before it was the Buttery. the venue was an inn called the Shandon Bell (the name appears in an original floor tile mosaic in the entrance to the upstairs restaurant). (‘learly the opportunity to reclaim the name under the Two liat Ladies theme was too good to resist.
News to nibble on
I A! "ll. I'll eating and drinking scene on Byres Road is constantly evolving. Recent arrivals include Otto, an independent bar and grill in the former Rubaiyat pub on the corner of University Place, Atrio, a restaurant linked to Sauchiehall Street’s Topolino’s which has taken over the former Bonham’s wine bar near the entrance to Ashton Lane, and then there’s the imminent arrival of another operation by La Vita, which currently runs Italian restaurants in Bishopbriggs and the city centre, right next door to Tennant’s bar at the University Avenue junction.
fi W cam-roan restaurant has opened a second venue. Calistoga Central. in the site of the former Martin‘s and Roti restaurants at 70 Rose Street Lane North in the New Town. It will offer the same Californian cuisine as the original, with owner Gordon Minnis maintaining his policy of offering West Coast wines in the restaurants at just £5 mark up above shop prices. The new restaurant has a separate wine lounge and will be open at lunehtimes on weekdays. as well as for dinner Monday to Saturday. Book on 0131 225 1233. www.calistoga.co.uk
Foodies at the Festival, which takes place 23-24 Aug at the Sheraton Hotel in Edinburgh, is now available online (www.foodiesfestival.com) with lists of the high-profile chefs leading food demos as well as details of various masterclasses led by top-notch local food producers Simple Simon pies, Hot Chocolates and Loch Arthur Cheese. You can also sit down at Lavazza coffee workshops or browse the stalls of food-related businesses, including newcomers Foodieboxes (pictured) and Cooking Mania cook school.