Ivy league
The new regime at the Giffnock Ivy promises a taste of Paris on the Southside of Glasgow. Emily Henderson is transported, but
how far?
or the price of a £5 train
ticket. Glaswegians can
enjoy a dining experience to rival those found in the stylish restaurants of Paris. Well, according to the new management of the Giffnock Ivy, that is. which aims to ‘bring the tastes, smells and sounds of France’ to this leafy suburb.
Head to the Giffnock Ivy on a Saturday night and there‘s an interesting mixture of smartly dressed couples, families and restaurant regulars. In other words, just the kind of clientele an upwardly aspiring neighbourhood restaurant would hope to connect with. On Sundays. diners can enjoy a traditional roast dinner, another thoughtful touch primarily for the benefit of regulars.
The walls, a mix of exposed stone and warm shades of cream and brown, complement the rich crimson of the chairs. Red ribbons are tied prettily around crisp white napkins. Such touches score highly for effort. but the burning question is: if this restaurant was in the centre of Glasgow or Edinburgh (never mind Paris), would it be particularly special?
Owner Peter Purewal, along with chefs Stuart Howie and Derek Blair (who between them boast a list of credits including Rogano, the Buttery, Naims and the Tumberry Hotel), have clearly put a great deal of thought into re-vamping the menu which puts great emphasis on
a run usr 7—14 Aug 2008
THE MENU USES SUPER-FRESH INGREDIENTS SOURCED
FROM LOCAL SUPPLIERS
using super-fresh ingredients sourced from local suppliers.
For the most part. this attitude is backed-up by the cooking. That classic starter (also available as a main). a warm salad of Scottish scallops with grilled Stornovvay black pudding. is beautifully presented. though the texture of the scallops is on the rubbery side. Mains include roast loin of pork on a leek and prune compote served with wonderfully light Arran
mustard gnocchi. or an 807. prime
GIFFNOCK IVY
219 Fenwick Road, Giffnock, Glasgow 0141 620 1003.
www.giffnockivy.co.uk
Smart Scottish/French restaurant in Glasgow‘s Southside suburbs Set price two-course lunch £9.95;
average two-course evening
meal £18
fillet of Scottish beef priced at £23.95. The one vegetarian option is a rich. but not too heavy and clearly non-greasy. herb risotto with truffle oil and fresh parmesan.
The dessert menu is fairly conventional for this style of venue. with classic creme brulée. strawberry shortcake or a selection of Scottish cheeses with oatcakes and chutney.
The attentiveness of the serving staff is impressive. but walks a line line between the eager desire to please and irritating table-side hovering. and this is ultimately where the restaurant lets itself down.
The Giffnock Ivy is never going to feel like a Parisian bistro. but if the diners were allowed to relax and enjoy the largely impressive menu perhaps France wouldn't seem so far away after all.
News to nibble on
annual promotion run by Glasgow Restaurateurs Association, kicks off this week and runs through to Sunday 31 August. Over 40 restaurants around the city are participating in the Dine Around scheme, which features fixed priced menus from £15, with a free dram of Auchentoshan whisky for all meals booked online. Participating restaurants and booking details can be found at www.graonline.co.uk. In addition, events such as themed meals, cooking demos and tasting sessions are being held by member restaurants including Alla Turca, pictured.
! FOOD nausea." m HAY into Edinburgh's hectic August programme with the Foodies at the Festival event held in and around the Sheraton Hotel on Saturday 23 and Sunday 24 August. A clutch of top-level chefs from in and around the city. including Martin Wishart, Tom Kitchin and Jeff Bland. are appearing in the chef's demonstration theatre. There's more at www.foodiesfestival.com, and a competition on page 10.
\ s. . § II'III III III! LIST I“ of the Beanscene chain going into administration, you can get an insight into the ups and downs of these food empires in a new book by Pierre Levicky, founder of Pierre Victoire. Cooking Life recalls the rise and collapse of the chain which began in Edinburgh’s Victoria Street and encompassed 140 restaurants at its peak. Self- published (it couldn’t really be any other way) and highly personalised, the book conveys the craziness of the heady days, with Levicky taking a dig at the bean-counters involved as PV foundered. It’s available from Levicky’s new venture, Chez Pierre, in Edinburgh’s New Town, priced £14.90.