NICE DOESN'T FEEL LIKE THE EXCLUSIVE PLAYGROUND OF THE WEALTHY
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Nice is popular for food and its architectural influences that range from Hindu to Neoclassical. Above and left: the open air markets just off the sea front; below: the city
. .v from the hills
Nice and easy does it
‘ Richard Moore braves the glamour and the husband hunters of
I
35.
5117‘! 177i :1
the Cote d'Azur and discovers a wealth of treasures
rriving in Nice. at an airport that is within
walking distance of the city centre. brings to
mind Robert Louis Stevenson‘s claim that the great thing is not to arrive. but to travel. ‘not to go anywhere but to go‘. To be honest. arriving in Nice makes a nonsense of this. but RLS. no stranger himself to the French Riviera. was writing before the advent of budget air travel.
Nice is a city of contrasts and paradoxes. It is home to the wealthy and welcoming of the less wealthy. If you were on a very tight budget. you could just about stroll from the airport to the long. arcing Promenade des Anglais. its endless procession ofjoggers. roller- bladers. cyclists and walkers making it as lively as Central Park. but with sunshine and sea.
Our first stop is the Old City. with its narrow streets. baroque architecture. and famous Marché des Fleurs. But it had been an early start and a long moming: the hunger pangs are biting. ‘Pas de probleme.‘ says our guide. Myriam. ‘We go to Cher. Theresa's.‘
We find Theresa’s place in the main market square. at the end of the flower stalls. ‘Theresa is a real traditional Nice woman. an institution.’ explains Myriam. still grinning. ‘And she’s looking for a husband.‘
Theresa. heavily made up and — a bit like parts of
Nice — with an air of faded glamour about her. is standing over an enormous. sizzling copper hot plate. We seat ourselves around a plastic table and she heats up enormous pancakes. made with chickpea flour. water and olive oil. to concoct the local dish. the sou-a. which arrives every few minutes on the back of a motorbike. Having been fed. watered and entertained by Theresa. we take our leave and explore the other side of Nice: the suburbs.
Here. the architectural influences —- Italian. Hindu. Oriental. Greek. Neoclassical. Renaissance — illustrate how far and wide the pull of the Riviera really was in the 19th century. These days. the influx has slowed to a trickle — a predominantly Russian trickle.
12 THE LIST 17—31 Jul 2008
Yet Nice doesn’t feel like the exclusive playground of the wealthy. lt's vibrant and surprisingly affordable. From July the entrance to all the city's many museums will be free. while a journey on the new tram (lidinburgh. take note) costs a single liuro.
If you‘ve made all these savings on your transport. then a visit to the (‘hateau de la (‘hevre d‘()r is in order. even if only to gawp. This boutique hotel. the ultimate in moneyed Nice sumptuousness. is slowly taking over the hilltop village of [file In this tiny village are two Michelin-starred restaurants (Nice has 25 in total). whose terraces offer mind—blowing views across the Cote d‘Azur. ‘l)own there.~ our host tells us. 'you can see Bono‘s house. And on the small peninsula is lilton John's. Bono is a good customer ofours.~
A good customer. she confirms. rather than a regular one. So don't be put off.
Richard flew to Nice with Easyjet. www.easyjet.com, flights from Edinburgh from £25.99 one-way (including tax), and £47.66 return. For more information on the Chateau de la Chevre d’Or, see www.chevredor.com
THREE NEARBY
Cannes Although most famOuS fOr the illustrious film festivai that swamps the City in actor—types every May. Cannes' reputation fer glamour is evident throughout the year. The main streets are packed with expensive bOutiqueS. but most of the town's beaches are private. so you witl have to fOrk out if you want to blkliil'tlp with the rich and famous.
Grasse This inland town is surrounded by acres of sweet- smelling flowers and has been the centrepiece of the French perfume industry for the last 300 years. and was notorioust the setting for Perfume: The Story of a Murderer. Head to the impressive cathedral, which boasts three Rubens paintings. or bedeck yourself in colour at the dain flower market. Monaco Home of the Monaco Grand Prix and the dynasty of tilnistar Grace Keily. Wait for the changing of the guard at the Palace to see the continental equivalent of Beefeaters. and hit the world- famous casino.