RiSi nq sta r Kat Adam chews over some seriously classy bread in a
modern artisan bakery and café run by Swedes
cross Britain there are around 3000 craft
bakeries. In I‘rance. with a similar si/ed
population btit a rather different attitude to bread. there are 35.000 craft or artisan bakers. lirench. (ierman and Iiastern Iiuropean traditions have exerted the strongest influence on ‘continental' bakeries in Scotland. often upholding the essentials of good bread in the face of the industrially produced pap which. shamefully. makes up the vast majority of bread sold in the IIK.
Until now we haven't looked to the Scandanavians for inspiration in this realm. but on the evidence of I’eter‘s Yard. the impressive Swedish artisan bakery. deli and cafe located on the edge of Middle Meadow Walk in the new Quartermile development on the site of the former Iidinburgh Royal Infirmary. respect is clearly due.
A joint venture between Swedish businessman I’eler I.jungquist and Iidinburgh-based partners. Sophie and Robin I)ow. Peter‘s Yard is the first overseas expansion of a craft bakery opened in 2002 by Jan lledh. one of Sweden‘s most prominent master bakers and confectioners.
lledh developed the breads and a wide range of
home-made ice-creams. jams and marmalades at the ()lof Viktors bakery/cale in southeast Sweden where great care was also devoted to creating a unique style of open sandwhich. "I‘he primary ingredient of a good sandwich is passion. then well dressed. top quality bread.‘ I.jungquist says. I‘our bakers from ()lof Viktors were drafted in to help set up the Iidinburgh venture. but staff are being hired locally and trained in Iledh‘s bakery techniques.
Swedish architect and designer Nirvan Richter designed the Iidinburgh site in conjunction with fumiture developer and manufacturer Norrgavel. The interior of the cafe is light and lofty with glass from floor to ceiling. bare concrete pillars. steel counters and wooden tables. The quasi- industrial impression is given warmth thanks to Norrgavel’s typically simple and comfortable Scandinavian furnishings.
Brown paper menus scroll down the walls
listing drinks and daily specials. Baskets ftill of
sourdough. dark Swedish rye. knobbly walnut and date loaves and green-llecked spinach bread
‘THE PRIMARY INGREDIENT OF
A GOOD SANDWICH IS PASSION'
fill a central table while extensive shelving holds an exotic range of artisan chocolate and a varier of Peter‘s Yard crispbreads and biscotti. The Swedes have long been champions of an up- beat. wholesome attitude. so there's good coffee.
muesli and yoghuits at breakfast. huge bowls of
appetising soups at lunchtime including a vibrant beetroot soup and open sandwiches made with ingredients such as roasted Angus fillet beef. horseradish and pickled red onions on Levin bread. a raisin-based sourdough.
Parked prams can be a ha/ard at busy times in
PETER'S YARD
27 Simpson Loan, Quartermile, Edinburgh 0131 228 5876. wwwpetersyardcom Contemporary Swedish artisan bakery and
cafe. Average two—course lunch 5310
the [no separate \L‘ztllllg itl‘c‘tIS. and IIIL‘ cale bu//es during the day. It will soon open regularly until I 1pm. with pi//as baked in stone ovens and Yalrhona chocolate desserts served along with Scandanavian spirits. .laii Ichh will be in town to host chocolate tasting evenings and bread making demonstrations and discussions through the year. It's tempting to try to recreate the recipes at home. artned with Ichh's book. But. then again. v. ho wants to be stuck at home when I’eter‘s Yard is such a pleasant place to be.
CRAFT BAKERY-CAFES
Tapa Coffee & Bakehouse
21 Whitehill Street, Dennistoun, Glasgow 0141 554 9981, www.tapabakehouse.co.uk The hand-made. traditional ethos of this artisanal bakery. cafe and coffee roasterie has won it fans across the City deSpite the untashionable location. Snap up organic bread and cakes. or stick aroond for breakfast. soup or aromatic spicy chickpea. spinach and potato curry in the cheertul cafe.
10 THE LIST 13—27 Mar 2008
Manna House 22-24 Easter Road, Edinburgh
0131 652 2349, www.manna-house- edinburgh.co.uk
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Heart Buchanan 380 Byres Road, Glasgow, 0141 334 7626, www.heartbuchanan.co.uk
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