- TRAVEL
,/
“Lapp of the gods
Clockwise, from below: island life in Helsinki, public sculpture by Manolo Valdes in Helsinki
Sara McMillan takes a tour round Finland's south-west coast and discovers that there's much, much more to the country than Santa and saunas
hen I first started making
plans for my weeklong
trip to Finland. I began the requisite process of droning on to anyone and everyone who would listen about my upcoming travels. However. on completion of my l‘m-going-to-Finland-(ha ha you‘re not)—and-for-your—sake-l'll-try-not to-look-so-smug spiel. I found that 1 always got the same response: ‘Finland'.’ Really? I didn‘t know people went there.‘
It’s true. Apart from Christmas treks to Lapland to see Santa. travelling to Finland for pleasure isn't something that people do. Finland‘s southernmost points are as far north as Shetland. a geographical reality that has led to the supposition that the whole country is even colder. darker and gloomier than Scotland. So why on earth would anyone want to go there‘.’
This is the journalistic transition paragraph: where l pronounce that I set out to answer this looming question plaguing my — and by extension your — curiosity. But that would be a lie. I have always. always wanted to go to Finland. 1 don't know why. Perhaps it‘s the 94 THE LIST 18 Oct—T Nay 2 ‘0.”
romantic lure of a country whose citizens subscribe unwaverineg to the relaxing. restorative — not to
mention social — properties of
sharing a sauna (pronounced sow- nah) with close friends and family. enhanced by knowing that the traditional smoke saunas radiate with heat generated from burning sweet. musky. perfumed birch wood for ten hours or more. Maybe it’s more of an intellectual fascination: Finland was home to Sibelius. one of the most notable classical composers of the 19th century. and is world-renowned for its exemplary. groundbreaking architecture and design from heavyweights such as Alvaar Alto. Eero Saarinen and Marimekko.
To say that my expectations of
Finland's southwest coast — the Archipelago. Turku and Helsinki —
HELSINKI IS BURST ING WITH LIFE, FREE FROM THE CUT-THROAT ANTICS OF THE MODERN WORLD
were met. would an understatement of such gross proportions it could be classified as the biggest porky I‘ve ever told.
We flew into Helsinki direct from Edinburgh. This next sentence might seem like something written by an ad man for Finn Air. but our stay in Finland began the moment we stepped into the departure terminal. Everyone was relaxed. cool. matter of fact. We were helped thoughtfully and openly. as though angst and anxiety are unknown afflictions in Finland. So much so. in fact. that the airline streams live footage of the runway during take- off and landing. presumably for someone's viewing pleasure. My scientist husband thought this was great. I. on the other hand. hid my eyes like it was a graphic scene on ER. But I‘m kind of a sissy when it comes to flying.
Getting around is a similarly relaxed process. L'pon arrival in Helsinki we easily found our way to the bus terminals and set off to Turku. Finland‘s former capital and gateway city to the Archipelago. For all I had read about the country. nothing had prepared me for the stunning beauty and serene
landscapes of the l’innish .-\rchipelago. a collection of o\ er 4(l.()()(l islands spanning the Baltic Sea between Sweden and Finland. lt‘s magical. and a boat trip through it is breathtaking. 'l‘hc sea. often sheltered by other islands and seemingly unaffected by titles. is relatively calm. but the \ ista changes from moment to moment; the coastlines dotted w ill] understated cottages and evergreens reaching their tall thin bodies tip toward the sky. The waters. often shallow due to the clusters of low— lying islands spanning the seascapc. are best navigated by someone whose primary purpose is not to get where he's going as fast as possible. As the area is no longer able to sustain commercial fishing. leisurely tours are often guided by ex-fishermen who use their knowledge of and passion for the area to help you catch some of the elusive pike perch inhabiting the areas waters.
The islands are best seen by boat and best experienced by bicycle. The relatively flat landscape and