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A wave of right-on New York-style delis has hit Glasgow, including Sonny & Vito, pictured. Donald Reid finds out what the fuss is about
Sonny & Vito's 52 Park Road, Glasgow, 0141 357 0640
Berits 8: Brown 6 Wilson Street, Glasgow. 0141 552 6980
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Stealing, * sleeping and Meg Ryan
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Life {ism
he ampersand is on the march llerus iv Brown. ls'ember t\ .lones. Sonnv & \ito. l’ltoebe «k l’lovd all new or newish (ilasgow calc-delis e\cept the last one. a kids' designer clothes label. Still. eas_\ mistake to tnake
You can probabb blame the .-\mericans. lolk like Ben t& .lerr_\. or .loel and ( iiorgto. lounders ol landmark New York deli Dean tk lleluca. We ma} deride l'S l'ood culture. bill in eertam areas the} laid down a marker ol qualit} as a ke_\ marketing asset in the l'ood business decades below we eottoned onto it here.
'l'here's also the build} lactor. ’l‘wo lolk w ho rub along oka_\ together. bring dil'lerent skills to a business and believe iii svnergv 'I'wa heids are better than _\in. It‘s a chummier and less arrogant prospect than the celebrit} tor wannabe L'L'lk‘hl'll} l L'llL‘l'. littlllc \\ t'll ltll'g'c H\ L‘l‘ lllL' tltittt'.
Sue Berits and Peter Brown opened a deb tn Kippen in 3004. Progressive business lolk. thev have set abottt l'ranchising the concept. 'l‘he lirsl to open was in (ilasgow's Merchant ('it} last month. where liuan Maeka} and Moria} llannah run an operation with obvious visual links to the original. but ke_v dil'l‘erences in emphasis.
(liven the downtown location. it‘s more cale than deli. simple btit good l'ood showcased as much throttgh brunehes and salads as well stocked displav cabinets. Wine is important too. with a decent selection available to take away or drink in. litit' U) L‘tit'kttgc. \vlticlt stitllttls a lot but ends up signilieantlv cheaper than similar qualit) wines at nearb) restaurants. Btfili stavs open till 9pm or later serving nibbles. platters. tapas and sztltdwicltcs.
Sonny and Vito are the nine-vearrold twins ol Angela and Mario l’elosi. Their new cute is near Kelvinbridge l7nderground Station. on a nice corner site that‘s a bit tnore prominent than their previous venture. ()tago. a well-respected il perhaps under-utili/ed bistro ol'l' (iibson Street. Stacked high with wooden shelving. packed tight with tables. chairs and displavs ol‘ olives. scones and bars ol‘ artisan chocolate. it has w'holesomeness and integrity. l'ront ol' house. Angela and her stall provide energ} and down— to-eanh (ilaswegian friendliness. 'l'here\ lots ol' grainy wood. bare brick and a bit ol‘ 'l'imorous Beasties wallpaper ("l'hev‘re l'riends ol' ours.‘ explains Angela.)
()n a blackboard are ‘toda_v’s tartlets‘ shortcrust pastry tilled. l'or example. with smoked salmon. sunblushed tomato and ricotta. made in house. The menu ldavtime onI) here) has bold sandwiches made with organic bread. tasting platters ol‘ meats and cheeses combining top-notch continental and Scottish items. l'nion Hand-Roasted coffee and cakes baked }itt'tls from their linal destination. When it's relative!) sitnple like this. the concept is the eas) pan. It‘s often a lot trickier getting the name right. Or both ol‘them.
‘SONNY & VITO IS WHOLESOME AND HAS INTEGRITY'
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