A new line in
kids’ Clothes PAGE42
Comfort food
Gandolfi Fish may be a newcomer to the Merchant City but it’s already proving a reliable addition to Glasgow’s dining scene
GANDOLFI FISH 84AbionStreet, MerchantCity, Glasgow, 0141 5529475
Open seven days for lunch and dinner www.cafegandolfi.com
Shantha Roberts
calls in PAGE48
THE MEAL
ol inan_\ \calood lc‘\1;tlll.tlll\ arc chcap l'\pccl to pix an a\cragc ol £35 lot txxo c'tllll\\‘\ hcic. though _\oii could pick tip thrcc \niallci til\ilt'\ lot a US hinch,
(iandolli l'ixh opcncd a lc\\ \kcckx ago in (ilaxgmcx .\lcrchant ('it} hut alrcad} it Ich\ likc it‘x hccn thcic loi dccadcx 'I‘hc inothcr \hip. (‘alc (iandolli hax. ol coniw. lk‘c‘ll thcrc lill' tlk‘L'ilkiL'\. Il‘\ lll\l a cullplc Hl tilHll\ dtmn thc \li'cct lroni thc ncu placc. and thcrc\ hltlc douhl that ounci Scannitix .\iaclnnc§ long chct‘ixhcd proicct ha\ hcnclncd \ignilicantl} lroin thc l'tind ol c\pciicncc and cicdihihtx hc hax garncrcd oxcr thc _\car\ in .'\|hiolt Sticct.
I%_\ no lllc‘;tll\ is it a clonc. lltl\\c\t'l. In lill\ pail ol ltl\\ll a wall ol' glass is cxxcntial lor pccring holh Ill and out. hut ol courxc that\ a coinplctc contra\t to (‘alc (iandolli. \nd inxtcad ol chunk) \xoodcn litrnittirc lhc icl hlack lcathci \catng and oltuhilc niarhlc tahlcx icinloicc .i clil\\lc \ll
l)cco clcgancc. though it\ all lightl) packcd. \\hcn l|l|\ placc is llll\_\ it‘x rannncd in a non}. clattciing. thi\\lllil\\ll l‘c‘\l;tlll';llll \\a_\.
.\ \ol'tcr tonc conic\ l'roni thc t|l\t'lt‘t‘l ait lixcli \ca thcincd collagcx h} llchridcan artixt \lona \laclcan. .\Iong \xith lhc island \otn‘ccd \hclllixh and (iaclic hit‘\\lll}.‘ h_\ thc dutil'. ll‘\ tlll L‘lldcdl‘lllg‘ rcniindcr that. I’m all llx nictropolitan glit/. (ilttxgtm \(HHL‘lilHL‘\ itch likc it big \illagc on thc \\c\l coax! ol Scotland.
'rht- old calc \cr\c\ m olhcr \\a_\\ too. Man} l'ixh l'cxlatll'atlh lccl ohligcd to hcdgc thcir hct\ \\ ith non \calood diNllc‘\. Ilcrc. tokcnixnl lx Icl'l [H a Ionc \IL‘;l|\ ll'llc\ lll lllc \zdc knoulcdgc that othcr haxcx arc cincl'cd pcilcctl} \xcll a cotiplc ol~ diml\ ;l\\;l_\. It gi\c\ thc nicnti a plcaxing pain} and dcdicalion ti: thingx inarinc. and pa\c\ thc \xa} lot a rangc ol' \cal'ood that lor oncc l\ on par \xith a good l'ixhtnongcr: cocklcx. inackcrcl. cod roc. lohxtcr. crah and hcrring alongsidc thc l'ainiliar \ahnon. \qtnd and \callop»
'l‘hc salt hcrring and potato thin in particular mil drau \ighx ol' llt)\[;tlglit l'roin \tllllc‘ and thinl} til\j_‘lll\cti tcrror lroin othcrx. Salt? Boncxl Sincll} hcrring? In lact. it‘s a |o\c|_\ dixh. thc hcrring a crcain}. rich. \\c|| \camncd lillct rathcr than soincthing scoopcd out ol a \tlllt'llcl'lhlcd harrcl. itx lcu tin} honcx llllltH} ticklixh rathcr than lilc thrcatcning. lt‘x \ci‘\cd \xith a shot glass or milk. \ihich :Ji\L'\ lhc di\h a daxh ol' \hcci \llltltilil coinl'ort.
You can cat in man} and \aricd \kil}\ hcrc with il\llllj_'\ undcr appclixcrx. \tartcrx. soups. o} \tct‘ plalcx and cold platcx. \Lllilti\ and \pccialx. Shclllixh in particular ha\c alua}\ lcnt lilc‘llhc‘hc‘x to picking and lllc'\\ inorc than l’orinal arrangcincntx. t'ccngtllwd hcrc in lhc pct'k}. itiic} intcnxit} ol a harhccucd crah clan with garlic iii;i_\o or a tcndcr. grillcd hall lohxtcr xx ith \ttlxtt \ct'dc. Siniplc but good l‘ood in a glamorous \ctting arc Illllc‘lc‘\\ \irtucx in thc rcxtaurant \xorld. .'\t (iandolli l-ixh it \h()\k\ alrcady
THE LIST 41