LiStS e
Tea and Sound of the Manchester Rotterdam tart with Mrs underground Barbara Nice PAGEB8 PAGE96
THE MEAL
hen (‘arina and Victor (‘ontini split from the
established family business. which just happens
to be Valvona 8; (‘rolla. the most famous ltalian deli in Scotland. they certainly raised a few eyebrows. But their (‘entotre caffe wine bar on (leorge Street took the enterprising couple in a new direction. which complemented the original operation.
Now. only a few years down the road. they have struck out into Stockbridge. taking over the former ('ircus (‘afe premises. creating a perky Italian bistro called Zanzero.
The interiors have been completely refitted. Bold blocks of colour in the otherwise white space create a nearly dazzling effect: it might arguably be more effective without full sun streaming through the southwest facing windows of principal dining room. ()n those shimmering days. a pair of shades might not go amiss. Acid lime and llorescent orange Perspex menu covers virtually glow.
The motto of the new operation is ‘slow food — served quickly". which rather sounds like someone trying to square the circle. On each table a flat
tin box contains a foldout with
the whole ethos behind the
operation — it’s humorous as well as informative. It A highlights the (‘ontinis'
attention to sourcing. whether
Aberdeen Angus beef or
organic Italian wines.
An all—day menu. served from noon till l()pm. moves from hot or cold antipain to pasta and pix/a options. via a couple of main courses. a pair of salads and a trio of 'rustico' dishes. Nearly everything has a one-word ltalian name. For example. garlic marinated chicken wings are ‘scottaditi‘ while rump steak with Italian red peppers. spinach and onions is simply ‘carne‘. l’i/la with goat‘s cheese and aubergine topping A- ‘capra bianca‘ - is an exception to the rule.
The gamberi antipasto (£6) has four plump grilled prawns on a wooden skewer with an oil and lime dipping sauce. From the cold antipasti. the fette plate (£4) consists of four slices of salami and a small pile of prosciutto with an
o elegant serving teaspoon of rosemary-infused honey.
Among the aforementioned rustico dishes. the choice
featuring tomato. aubergine and monarella (‘formaggio’ at
SIOW food, served fast is the motto of this bright, fashioname £7) comes tossed with a light dressing and a variety of new Italian bistro in the heart of Stookbridge
leaves. served on a hot plate. The salsiccia pasta (£9) offers hows lightly coated in a creamy sauce with stray slices of courgette and plenty of the crumbled sausage. well seasoned with fennel. l’or aftcrs. the torta whisky is a rich
- ~ s ' H o' ‘ o ‘0; ‘ 'z W with onlv a hint of anv single malt) 14/16 North WestCIrcus Place, Edinburgh. 0131 2200333 "LL ‘ L" L '1“ t “W l - — v
and tart creme fraiche on the side.
zanzem doesn’t sewe any COmmemla' fizzy drinkS. rather making fr'eSh COWS With Staff. while friendly and helpful. felt a bit tentative on our fruitjuice and Wing water. The avefage meal is about 21350 visit. but it was early days. Zan/ero. while not reinventing
the pizza. brings a fresh. positive addition to Stockbridge.
1‘.) Jill I) Aug] I’t‘IOf THE LIST 87