0K0 EXPRESS
0141 248 9666. wwwskoexpréggggh * -
Taking .a road trip around . California
PAGE 94
ushi survival
The Japanese speciality is served up in more modest premises at this revived Glasgow restaurant
Queen §treet, Glasgow
The
cock SUC erS for revival hype?
Open noonto‘ 10pm Sunday to was;555515“5513554553gamma
Six styles of sushi anda variety of hot—East Asian dishes
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THE MEAL
hen both YoSushi! and the original ()K() shut their
doors a few years back. some predicted the death
knell for sushi in Scotland. The pair were sprawling joints and probably evidence that the local market for cold cooked rice. seaweed and raw lish had been overestimated. But while they ceased operation. other smaller restaurants carried on. whether iidinburgh‘s Shushiya on Dairy Road and Bonsai in the Southside or lchiban and Miso in (ilasgow's (‘in (‘entre and West lind.
With the new ()K() iixpress. restaurateur and chef (‘olin Barr (not to be conl‘used with the one-time nightclub impresario and Republic Bier llalle l'ounder ol’ the same name) has a more bijou operation offering a variety of sushi as well as hot Japanese-styled and liast .»\sian—inspired dishes. [I is located in what was formerly Baloo. across the street from R(}‘s bar. and the interiors are bright red with yellow illumination. Fixed tables and benches for four are neatly arranged in the room. with a
sushi-prep counter and semi—
open kitchen to the rear. The V
signature of the old ()K(). the conveyor belt with colour- coded plates ol‘ Japanese treats.
is no more.
The menu states that 'it’s cotttpany policy not to serve tap water". (‘ould this be to ensure a brisk sale of USO servings ol‘
()K() water to all the late-night
clubbers who take advantage of
()K()‘s 5am closing at the weekend? The menu at ()K() [Express offers more than just sushi. (‘har—grills. teriyaki and yakitori skewers (of meat and lish) are complemented by gyo/a dumplings (steamed or deep-fried). noodle bowls (udon. soba or yaki) and Japanese hot pots.
While the sushi is not always made to order (and aesthetically speaking. the sight ol’ pre-prepared rolls under a sheet of cling lilm in the cold counter is not ideal). it is still nevertheless l‘resh tasting. Rice grains are plump. slightly sticky with a hint of vinegar and sugar -- and. importantly. not overly chilled. An inside out ('alil'ornia roll (four pieces l’or £4/eight for £8) is coated in pinky-orange lish roe before being sliced and served. with chunky bits of cucumber. avocado and crab stick at its heart. It comes with a lump of spicy wasabi. The prawns. atop a pair ol' nigiri (rice blocks). are pretty slender. but the flavour is line.
On the cooked side of the equation. the batter on the deep- l'ried tempura (with options l‘rom l‘ish and chicken to vegetable and tofu) is disappointing. it is neither light nor crispy enough; a rather bland beige hue rather than golden brown. I"uli marks. however. for the breaded chicken katsu: crumbly breadcrumb crust l'lakes l'rom moist white meat. served with a creamy nut dipping sauce. .»\ simple dish and. in a similarly straightl’orward l‘ashion. ()K() lixpress may thrive where its glit/ier predecessor didn‘t.
;’-'. Mr. 7 Jun .‘ \‘f THE LIST 89