TRAVEL
Craigellachie Hotel is in an idyllic setting in the
Whisky galore!
Claire Sawers visits Scotland’s equivalent of the Champagne region and is happy to learn that whisky isn’t just for the pipe-and-slippers brigade
n almost any bar in Paris or
Barcelona. you'll spot young
females drinking whisky. Not old men in tweed bunnets. swirling heavy tumblers and singing to themselves but young. fashionable women. A whisky-cola may be a very popular ladies‘ choice in clubs and pubs in Europe. but in Scotland. while we‘re au fair with
rum. vodka and gin. the Water of Life seems to have fallen out of
favour.
When a friend suggested a trip to Speyside. the heart of whisky country. I was all for it. Ruairidh is a fan of his single malts. and knew I was an enthusiastic amateur. He rolls his eyes when I order my usual whisky and ginger. and is eager to teach me the liner points of whisky appreciation.
He mentions a bar in a Speyside country house hotel. which boasts 7()() different bottles of single malt — one of the biggest collections in the world. It's a bit like Mecca for whisky fans. and every year tourists arrive from all over the world to sniff. swirl and sip the drams on
offer. We packed a few bottles of
lrn Bru for the journey and set off.
The drive east towards Scotland’s equivalent of the Champagne 96 THE US? ’26 Apr 10 May 2007
region is a twisting. picturesque ride. ending at the banks of the River Spey. Just now the tumbling green fields are full of spring lambs and ramblers are out in force. winding along the Speyside Way. a 7()—mile-long path. which mns from the Moray Firth south to Aviemore. Barley has been grown and distilled in Speyside since the 18th century. and most of the household names — Glenfiddich. Glenlivet. The Macallan. Aberlour — begin life here. Dufftown and Speyside are home to 58 distilleries altogether. more than half the total in Scotland. The rest of Scotland‘s whisky is produced in the Highlands. Lowlands and lslay. where sea air or peaty soil gives a saltier. smokier edge. compared to Speyside‘s lighter. more delicate malts.
NOSING IS A FAR MORE DELICATE BUSINESS THAN JUST SHOVING YOUR FACE INTO THE GLASS AND TAKING A SNORT
heart of whisky country
We find the Craigellachie hotel right in the heart of whisky world. perched a few hundred metres above Thomas Telford’s iron bridge. We fling open our hotel room curtains for picture-perfect views across the Spey. but before I have time to get my camera out for scenic snapshots. Ruairidh reminds me why we are here — the Quaich Bar.
With its tartan settees and patterned carpet. the Quaich looks
like your typical cosy Highland snug. But after taking one look at the walls — stacked to the ceiling with shelves of bottles — I worry Ruairidh might kneel down and kiss the ground. Like a kid in a very grown-up candy store. he scans rows of black-coloured drams. exclusive Japanese malts. sherry. ale and port casked whiskies and cigar malts. to be enjoyed with a smoke. I get the feeling ordering a Famous Grouse and Diet (‘oke in here would be like snorting cocaine off a pew in the Vatican.
The most expensive whisky will set you back a credit card-choking £275. That‘s per dram. so although guests are allowed to pick bottles up. the butter-lingered may prefer to leave them alone. li‘ollowing advice from the Keeper of the Quaich. who points out the most attractive l8- and 25~year-olds (and some good rare double matured malts too), we begin appreciating the whisky in earnest. I pick up tips on nosing. a far more delicate business than just shoving your face into the glass and taking a snort: the first sniff lets the nose adjust; a second allows alcohol fumes to enter the nostrils: a third lets the whisky begin its full assault on the senses. After half an hour's practise. we are identifying dried fruit. cinnamon. caramel. sheny and — my own personal addition — Magic Marker pens (that one was a Laphroai g ).
The people we chat to in the bar have come to follow the Malt Whisky Trail. a signposted walk which takes in eight distilleries and a cooperage. We've only got a weekend. so pick the Glenliddich distillery — the largest in the area — for an overview.
Like me. the whisky industry is a bit worried about the drinks fusty. pipe and slippers image. Companies such as Jon. Mark and Robbo‘s