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l At the newly opened 78 bar in Glasgow’s West End, vegetarian I food is being reinvented with afresh yet simple twist

THE 78 10-14 Kelvinhaugh Street, Glasgow 0141 576 5018

Food served Sun-Thu noon-8pm;iFri/Sat I Hearty servings of cafe-style vegetarian food 7

Drinks served til midnight

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lasgow has long trailed Edinburgh when it comes to

dedicated vegetarian diners. Some efforts have

withered (Indian Asha) while others have adapted to please carnivores (Bay Tree Cafe’). 9

So, in 2007. can the city support ventures that don‘t do meat? Craig Tannock. founder of 13th Note and the man behind Mono. thinks so. Last year. his Stereo was placed on standby while new digs were sought in the city centre. The 78 opened in early March on the old Finnieston site.

The Stereo premise has been stripped back to bare stone and brick walls and sanded hardwood floors. A real wood- burning lire glows at one end of the room. while the other is filled with pew-style benches. The long bar is backed by cream coloured. distressed French cupboards and the tall

windows opposite open onto the pavement with tidy rows of freshly stained timber tables and chairs.

The name (in keeping with Tannock‘s penchant for record- p'”y“‘g THE PORTIONS early 20th century gramophone that stands beside stacks of old 78rpm discs. Plans are this piece of kit gets FRESHLY WOUfld Up. The range ()f organic and vegan beers on tap includes Freedom lager is Sam Smith‘s Taddy (vegan but not organic).

The concise food menu consists of around a dozen options. chalked on blackboards. which include small dishes (£2—£3.5()) and main meals (£7). The portions are good and. of fried falafel to slender chips glistening with oil and served with paprika mayo. The downside of cooking from scratch. though. is that food sometimes arrives at a 33m pace. But it’s still early days at 78. light and crispy poppadums as well as a trio of plump veg and potato tilled pakora. plus a pile of friable white rice (that goes a bit cold as the plate has not been heated) and a dollop of mango chutney. This dish. particularly with a side order. healthy serving of nutty hummus. toasted pitta pockets and i fresh greens with tomato and sweet peppers. The chef doesn‘t just stick to Middle Eastern and South Asian dishes: other offerings might include a tomato and coconut chilli

However tasty and wholesome. 78 does not bring to Glasgow a venue producing upmarket meat-free cooking on a par with Edinburgh's David Bann. Instead it focuses on solid cafe food. Should Glaswegian vegetarians (and city in the direction of more adventurous vegetarian cuisine. 29 Mar—12 Apr 2007 THE LIST 93

inspired by a mid to ARE GOOD AND,

afoot for DJ spots when lager and organic Luscombe Devon cider. The house draught better still. it all seems freshly prepared. from the wee balls

Mildly spiced and rib-sticking red lentil dhal includes two might well sate two light appetites. The falafel comes with a with grilled smoked tofu. omnivores) support this venture. the next spin may take the