The prodian daughter Jennifer Lang sounds a little bit flustered when asked to describe her recent ascent in London fashion circles. In the two-and-a- half years since she graduated from St Martin's College fashion postgraduate course (having previously studied at the Scottish College of Textiles in Galashiels). Lang has been named by fashion bible V0ng as one of the six most promising young designers in London. has exhibited a collection of work at every single London Fashion Week. and won Scottish Textile Designer of the Year 2006. She has also collaborated with high profile labels in London and Rome. and was specially commissioned to design an outfit for Kylie. It‘s a lot to remember. ‘A spread like we received in Vogue is a huge boost for a young designer and a great platform. as all sorts of people see your work. Kylie‘s stylist called me tip and asked me if they could borrow the catwalk pieces from that show. but
The emergent designer
‘Oh no. I‘m not sure if I should tell you what my collection was influenced by.‘ says young Glasgow designer Onnie (real name Veronica Renton). who is having her first professional show on GFW‘s New Talent: Revelations stage. She laughs for a while. then breathes in. ‘Okay. I heard that Dali was inspired to paint The Hallm'inngvnic 'Ibreudor after seeing Matisse with his fly buttons undone. So this collection has a lot of buttons on it. for the picture and Matisse's flies. I like things like that. It’s quite monochromatic. too. this collection. Lots of masculine lines — I‘m making a piece I‘m calling a tuxedo blouse just now — but with
a glam edge. The source of
inspiration often takes over my own particular style — I get creatively involved in an idea and it all spirals from there.‘
they were all too big for her. I thought that was the end of it. but a few months later he commissioned me to make her a dress. it was pink. dip-dyed with deep burgundy. I’m still very pleased with it.’
Along with rising star Christopher Kane. Jennifer's presence at London Fashion Week last month has helped place new Scottish design firmly in the public eye. Her unobtrusive. clever knits may be less ostentatious than Kane‘s clubwear. but then ‘knits' is a rather inadequate word for the
Onnie has been running her own label for just over a year now. Like
Jennifer Lang. she’s a graduate of
the Scottish College of Textiles. but she went through Edinburgh College of Art before coming back to her native Glasgow. ‘It can be frightening. being a designer in Scotland.’ she says. ‘lt‘s such a small place. and I think there‘s always that sense that at some point you get too big for the city —
everyone‘s a little scared of
working so hard then ending up in London. working for free for a bigger designer who can occasionally offer you a hot lunch. But there‘s a feeling now that you don‘t have to get too big for the city any more.~ ()nnie has been involved in Scottish fashion for ten years. since she was lo: she did work experience with ultra-hip Glasgow label ()lanic after leaving art school. and she thinks things are changing. 'Ten years ago. everyone in Scotland went to Galashiels for training: and then when they came back here. ()lanic would host regular fashion meetings — and most of the people who used to attend are down in London now. It‘s different these days. It‘s really interesting. to be
designing in Glasgow.‘ www.onnie.biz
‘THERE'S A FEELING THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO GET TOO BIG FOR SCOTLAND ANY MORE'
cobwebby. gossamer-fine tunics and free-skirling skirts Lang has
produced recently. She is wary of
the current vogue for Scots and doesn‘t think there is a distinctive Scottish 'look’. ‘There's been a drive to encourage Scottish talent recently which is great. There are increasing opportunities
designers in Glasgow. but there are a lot of opportunities in London. and the UK does still work out of there. I do think now that I could have been based anywhere and made it work.‘ www.jennifer-Iang.com
Dress by Onnie, real name Veronica Renton, who is having her first professional show at GFW
for
I Designers and companies taking part in Glasgow Fashion Week include Alchemist, All Saints, Chateauroux, Christian Dior, Christie Alexander, Daryl Van Vouw and Der Kommiser of Amsterdam International Fashion Week, Diesel, Dune, efunkhouser, Fifi and Ally, Fran Pollock, Glitz & Glamour, Harry Gilan, Joe Blake, Laura \fickers, Mary Kay, Raw Vintage, Topshop and Ultimo.
I Glasgow Fashion Week runs from Wed 28—Sat 31 Mar. with most catwalk shows based in the GFW tent in George Square. Please consult wwwgfashionweekcom for full show listings.
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